Author: Ivča

February is the time when I would normally plan a skiing trip. However, this year, we decided to try something different and escape the winter in Prague. Our choice was doing a road trip to Spain, Andalusia. I booked tickets to Malaga and began preparing the itinerary. We had two options: either move from one place to another, which always involves continuous check-ins and check-outs, or stay in Malaga and do day trips. I chose to stay in Malaga and move only towards the end of our stay for one night to Seville.

Practical insights:

Arrival to Spain:

It’s very straightforward for us, Europeans, as Spain is part of the Schengen zone. Non-EU citizens need to check the requirements related to their particular passports (for Spain but also for UK, if planning a trip to Gibraltar).

We travel around the EU with IDs only. Nevertheless, I was lucky to talk to a friend before our trip. I mentioned that we would drive to Gibraltar, and he said, ‘Well, don’t fall into the same trap as I did. You need to have passports because the UK is not part of the EU anymore.’ It was pretty fortunate, as I might have left our passports back at home.

Currency:

The currency is Euro, and ATMs are easily accessible. Paying with a card is common everywhere.

Driving:

Driving in Spain is easy, similar to any other EU country. The only exception that confused me a bit was the many lanes in roundabouts in big cities. For that, I always tried to stay in the outermost lane and be cautious about other cars and drivers. Petrol stations are in close proximity to each other.

Parking:

Can be difficult, especially in big cities. The underground paid garages are very narrow, so renting a small car is a wise choice.

Mobile Data:

EU citizens enjoy “roam-like-at-home,” so I didn’t have to worry about purchasing additional data packages. For everyone outside the EU, I recommend using the Airalo app, which allows you to download a data e-SIM card for countries worldwide. It’s easy and hassle-free.”

Day 1-2: Malaga

We arrived in Malaga in the evening and checked into our Malaga Sun apartment. I made sure that we would have private parking available. The garage was modern and easy to park in.

Malaga is a very pleasant coastal city, ideal for just walking around.

The Beachfront Promenade: It stretches from the city center all the way to Malaga beach. People are walking or jogging around. Muelle Uno, the open-air shopping mall, is located in Malaga Port. The place is lively during the day and in the evenings, but don’t expect to have coffee there in the morning. The only place we found open around 9 am was a Dunkin’ Donuts stand.

Roman Theater: Considered the oldest monument in Malaga, it was built in the 1st century BC under the rule of Emperor Augustus. It is situated underneath the Alcazaba fortress and was discovered in 1951, after being buried for several centuries.

Alcazaba: Positioned atop the hill, the fortress is assumed to be one of the best-preserved in Spain. Its origin dates back to the 11th century. There is quite a bit of a walk to reach the entrance, but it is worth it. After purchasing our tickets, we freely walked around, exploring the different parts and enjoying the views of the city.

Walking on the Beach Promenade, we reached the City Center.

The main landmark to visit is the Malaga Cathedral. It was built between 1528 and 1782, and the interior is in Renaissance style. The cathedral’s north tower is highly visible, standing at 84m high, while the south tower remains unfinished.

Calle Larios is the main pedestrian shopping street and the true heart of Malaga.

Nevertheless, for shopping enthusiasts, there’s another tip. There is a huge shopping complex, including McArthurGlen Designer Outlet just outside Malaga, next to the airport. We drove there from our apartment and had a half day of shopping.

In connection to Malaga, I also need to mention that it is the city where the famous Pablo Picasso was born. There is a Picasso Museum in the city that fans of this artist might want to visit.

Day 3: Gibraltar

Malaga – Gibraltar: 140km, 1h 45min

The trip from Malaga to Gibraltar was easy, driving on the highway. We parked the car at Sta Bárbara Car Park at the border between Gibraltar and Spain on the Spanish side. The reasons for that are straightforward – it is cheaper and more comfortable than navigating the narrow streets of Gibraltar. We didn’t have to book the parking spot since we visited outside the main tourist season.

We walked to the border post from the car park. Right after crossing the border, there was a bus stop. We decided to buy a day travel pass to make use of the bus during the day. The bus took us to a very close proximity to the Gibraltar cable car station.

Gibraltar has a history full of different people and events. The place has been home to various groups, like the Phoenicians and Romans, a long time ago. It became part of the Moorish Empire, then went back and forth between Muslim and Christian rule. In 1713, it became British through the Treaty of Utrecht. Throughout its history, Gibraltar’s culture has been influenced by the British, Spanish, Genoese, and Jewish communities.

The cable car up the Gibraltar Rock

It took us to the highest point of the Gibraltar Rock. Unfortunately, clouds covered part of it when we visited, so we didn’t get the full view that would be there on clear days. Walking on the top is amazing, but one needs to beware of the monkeys. I wasn’t cautious enough, and one of them unexpectedly landed behind my neck. I’m not sure who screamed more, me or the monkey 😂. After exploring the top, we started to descend towards Michael’s Cave.

The cave, with its stalactite and stalagmite formations, has a rich history. It served as a refuge, later as a military hospital during World War II, and now is a popular tourist spot.

After visiting the cave, we walked down to the city center. Even though people drive on the right-hand side in Gibraltar (as elsewhere in Europe), the city atmosphere feels very much “British.” We found a local pub to have a late lunch and then started heading back to the border post.

Once we were on the bus, we had to stop to allow a plane landing to pass the runway. Gibraltar International Airport’s runway is unique because it intersects with a major road, Winston Churchill Avenue. When an aircraft needs to take off or land, road traffic is temporarily stopped, and barriers are activated to ensure a safe runway passage.

Day 4: Ronda

Malaga – Ronda: 102km, 1,5hours

Ronda is not a big city, but it is definitely worth visiting. Perched above a deep gorge, the new and old city are connected by the famous and picturesque Puente Nuevo bridge. Ronda is considered the cradle of bullfighting.

Upon arriving in Ronda, we parked the car at Parking Publico. It took about 7 minutes to walk to the first point of interest – Plaza de Toros de Ronda.

Plaza de Toros

It is a historic bullring built in the 18th century, also being one of the oldest and most iconic bullrings in Spain. We purchased entry tickets on the spot, got the headphone guide, and started to explore the place. We walked through the bullring, explored the bullfighters’ rooms, and witnessed the amazing riding arena of The Royal Cavalry of Ronda, which was established in 1573.

Puente Nuovo bridge

After exploring the Plaza des Torres, we walked towards the Puente Nuovo bridge.

It is impressive. Completed in 1793, it connects the old Moorish district of Ronda with the modern part of the town. It is often considered one of the most impressive bridges in Spain.

For the rest of our stay, we continued wandering around the Old Town with its narrow winding streets and whitewashed buildings.

Day 5: Caminito Del Rey

Malaga – Caminito Del Rey: 61km, 1hour

The next day, we decided to take a break from cultural experiences and enjoy some nature. Located about an hour’s drive from Malaga is Caminito Del Rey, often referred to as the ‘King’s Little Pathway.’ It is a walkway build in the walls of Gaitanes gorge. It was originally constructed for hydroelectric power plant workers. The name comes from the nickname of King Alfonso XIII, who visited in 1921.

At one point in time, the trail was damaged and became unusable, causing the connection between villages to vanish. The reconstruction began in 2014, and the trail was reopened to the public in 2015

We booked our entry tickets online several days in advance, as the number of visitors per day is limited.

Arriving at the Visitor Reception Center parking about 1.5 hours before our entry time, we caught a shuttle bus. A 20-minute bus ride took us to the restaurant/kiosk bus stop, and from there, it was a 20-minute walk to the canyon area and the start of the walking trail.

We waited for our time slot, we received helmets and headphones, and followed our guide. The walk, which takes about 2 hours, requires carrying water. We visited in February when the weather was perfect for the walk. As the entire path is exposed to the sun it must get hot during summer. The views of the canyon are breathtaking.

At the end of the trail, we returned the helmets and walked through a small village toward the shuttle bus stop. It then transported us back to the Visitor Center where we had parked our car.

Day 6: Granada

Malaga – Granada: 132km, 1,5 hour

Granada, situated at the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains, is best known for the Moorish palace, Alhambra.

My luck kicked in when I checked the official website in the morning, realizing most visitor slots for the day were taken. I organized our tickets, even though the process os a bit complicated – registering, and entering all details, including ID numbers. This a common system, I got across in other places in Spain, but not the easiest for on-the-spot reservations.

I wanted to park in the city center for a walk through town towards Alhambra. I chose Parking Angel Ganivet. Honestly, it is a very tight garage and it was difficult to drive in and out even with a small car.

Plaza Nueva

It is one of the city’s oldest and liveliest squares. Surrounded by historic buildings and charming outdoor cafes, it offers a vibrant atmosphere. We set in the middle of February in one of the outside restaurants enjoying a coffee and soaking up the sun.

Alhambra

Alhambra truly stands out as a must-visit in Granada. Located on the top of a hill, it offers beautiful views of the city. Constructed primarily during the 13th and 14th centuries, it played various roles, serving as a palace, fortress, and citadel. The complex is massive and requires a few hours of exploration—we wandered through the Generalife gardens, and the Alcazaba fortress, and, at our designated time, visited the Nasrid Palaces, with its stunning mosaics.

Day 7: Seville

Malaga – Seville: 210km, 2,5hours

Seville was the only destination where I felt a day trip might be too ambitious. We checked out of our apartment in Malaga and spent the final two days in Seville. As always, I ensured our accommodation had a private parking space, and once again, it proved to be a wise choice.

I found the Catalonia Santa Justa hotel, located approximately 25 minutes on foot from the city center. When we walked through the streets of Seville’s historic center, I only then realized how narrow they are and how challenging it would be to drive through them.

Seville is a bustling tourist town even in February. It’s advisable to book tickets online for major attractions like the Cathedral de Sevilla, Giralda Tower, and Alcázar. Unfortunately, I didn’t do so, and we found ourselves waiting in a long queue. As mentioned earlier, the online ticketing system can be complicated. While in line, I attempted to book tickets online, but the process of filling in personal details, including ID numbers, made me decide it was easier to wait.

We walked from the hotel to the city, and our first stop was Metropol Parasol. It’s a super modern and the world’s largest wooden structure, designed by Jurgen Mayer in 2005. On the ground floor, there’s an entrance to the Antiquarium, an archaeological site with remains from the Roman era. Next to the Antiquarium is the entrance and lift to the lookout point.

We continued towards Casa de Pilatos, one of the first examples of Andalusian architecture. Then, we navigated through the narrow streets of Barrio de Santa Cruz, the former Jewish quarter, towards the Catedral de Sevilla.

Catedral de Sevilla

It is the third-largest cathedral in the world and a UNESCO Heritage Site. Built in Gothic and Renaissance styles, the Giralda Tower dominates the city’s skyline. The cathedral stands on the site of a former mosque, with the Giralda Tower occupying the location of the former minaret. Inside the cathedral, you can find the tomb of Christopher Columbus.”

Alcazár

The stunning palace complex, originally built as a fortress by the Moors in the 10th century. It later underwent expansions and transformations, resulting in a mix of Islamic, Gothic, Renaissance, and Mudejar styles. We walked through the complex while admiring tilework, halls, courtyards, and gardens.
The intricate tilework, lush gardens, and ornate chambers captivate visitors as they wander through the halls and courtyards.

Day 8: Seville – Malaga – end of our road trip to Spain, Andalusia

On the last day, we packed all our belongings into the car, checked out of the hotel, and left the car in their garage. The final part of the city we planned to explore was Plaza de España.

Plaza de España

It was the highlight of the visit to Seville for me. When we arrived at the Plaza, I couldn’t help but say ‘WOW.’ Built for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929, the semi-circular building with a central canal is decorated with colorful tiles representing different regions of Spain. The bridges over the canal lead to the central building, featuring towers, galleries, and a series of benches showcasing beautiful ceramic tilework.

At lunchtime, we bid farewell to Seville and drove back to Malaga. After returning the car at the airport, we checked in for our flight back to Prague.

The idea of embarking on a road trip to Georgia came to mind during a late-night layover at Dubai airport. Contemplating which region to explore, the post-Soviet republics captured my attention.

Planning the road trip commenced with securing suitable flights to Tbilisi. Opting for LOT (Polish Airlines) via Warsaw emerged as the best choice. Visa requirements were duly checked, and fortunately, no visa hurdles awaited us—smooth sailing.

Determining the places to visit within our timeframe was the next step. Given Georgia’s vast expanse, the selection of areas and regions to explore became a “must”. Details of our choices can be found below.

Practical Tips:

Mobile Data:

The discovery of Airalo proved revolutionary. For phones with e-SIM functionality, I highly recommend downloading it to avoid the constant swapping of physical SIM cards. Airalo allows effortless purchase of e-SIM cards for nearly every country worldwide, offering regional options like Europe or Africa.

Local Currency:

The Georgian Lari is the official currency. Cash was indispensable, especially for accommodation payments, as many places required it. While larger cities’ shops and restaurants generally accepted cards, ATMs were available for cash withdrawals.

Taxi:

In Tbilisi, Uber may be absent, but Bolt operates on a similar principle. Download the app for reliable and affordable rides. Beware of taxi drivers at Tbilisi airport claiming to be Bolt drivers; ordering through the app is safer to avoid exorbitant charges.

Car Rental:

Opting for Tbiliso Car Rental proved a wise decision. They delivered the car directly to our hotel and arranged a convenient airport meeting for return. Despite the local cash payment norm, the company provided excellent service, including full insurance and no surcharge for a second driver. Check my Google review.

Driving in Georgia:

Despite warnings about the challenges of driving in Georgia, I found it totally manageable. Georgian drivers can be “hectic”, overtaking in unconventional places. Roads vary in conditions, and roaming animals are common. Adopting a defensive driving approach, staying calm, and allowing overtaking ensured a pleasant journey. After all, it was a holiday—no need to rush.

Petrol stations are conveniently located in close proximity to each other and are easily accessible for drivers. In the majority of cases, they accept card payments.

One crucial tip to note is that Google Maps often estimates shorter travel times between destinations. Despite the relatively short distances, road conditions may not always be optimal.

Days 1: afternoon in Tbilisi

Rustaveli Avenue:

Tbilisi’s main thoroughfare, Rustaveli Avenue, proved to be a perfect introduction to the city. It is the “home” of significant landmarks such as the Georgian Parliament, the Georgian National Opera Theater, and the Georgian Academy of Sciences. The avenue is lined with shops and restaurants. Fortunately, our timing aligned perfectly, allowing us to visit the local market, which is open only on specific days of the week.

Liberty Square
Rustaveli Avenue guides you to Liberty Square, a busy plaza. It is packed with the constant motion of cars and people rushing around. The statue of St. George slaying the dragon dominates the square. It is the symbol of freedom and independence. There are several landmarks such as the Georgian National Museum, or Tbilisi City Hall on the square.

After strolling through Rustaveli Avenue, we decided to have a dinner at Fabrika. It is located in the creative Vera district of Tbilisi. The space was originally a Soviet sewing factory, and the Fabrika complex has repurposed this industrial setting into a vibrant hub for creativity, culture, and social interaction. It offers mix of open cafes and resturants.

Day 2: Exploring Tbilisi

After having a breakfast, we walked from our hotel, via the familiar paths of Rustaveli Avenue, towards Liberty Square. From there, our journey extended to discover new and unexplored landmarks.

Narikala

It is an ancient fortress on a hill overlooking Tbilisi and the Mtkvari River. Positioned on a steep incline, we walked through the fortress remnants. Our exploration extended to the remarkable “Mother of Georgia” statue, a symbolic representation of Georgian national character. With a bowl of wine in her left hand, she welcomes friends, while a sword in her right hand signifies readiness to confront enemies.

Day 3: Georgian Millitary Road

Tbilisi – Stepantsminda: 158km

On Day 3, the Tbiliso Car Rental company delivered our car right to the hotel doorstep—a fantastic bonus. Our plan for the day was to drive from Tbilisi to Stephantsminda (also known as Kazbegi) via the famed Georgian Military Road.

Stretching 212 kilometers from Tbilisi (Georgia) to Vladikavkaz (Russia), the Georgian Military Road is a historic route utilized by invaders and traders over the ages. My pre-road trip readings had painted a picture of a potentially hazardous route, marked by obstacles like landslides, potholes, and free-roaming animals. Naturally, I wondered what the reality would be. Surprisingly, it turned out to be fine.

Perhaps my perspective is influenced by my experience driving on African roads, many of which are in a dire state. There was a challenging section around Gudauri where a portion of the road had collapsed, leading to a self-regulated flow of traffic. However, we navigated through that part fairly swiftly.

As mentioned earlier, Georgian drivers can be somewhat hectic, overtaking in seemingly ridiculous places. Nevertheless, the journey offers numerous landmarks to stop and explore along the way. I had allocated the entire day for sightseeing and driving, ensuring an easy going pace.

Places to visit on Millitary Road

Day 4: Gergeti Trinity Church – Juta – Chaukhi Lake

Gergeti Trinity Church

The following morning, we drove up to visit the Gergeti Trinity Church, an important landmark in Stepantsminda. While many choose to embark on a day trip, hiking up the steep hill, we decided on an alternative plan for the rest of the day. Dating back to the 14th century, the Gergeti Trinity Church remains an active institution within the Georgian Orthodox and Apostolic Church.

Following our exploration of the church and relishing the breathtaking views of Mount Kazbeg, we made our way back to Stepantsminda and then proceeded toward the village of Juta.

The journey to Juta

Before our drive, we were advised that reaching Juta demands a 4×4 vehicle and some driving expertise. This proved accurate. As we left the Military Road, driving deeper into the valley, the road conditions deteriorated. Eventually, only a “dirt” road ascended to Juta, highlighting the necessity for a 4×4 vehicle.

Juta – Chauki Lake hike

Arriving at Juta village, recognized as the highest inhabited settlement in Georgia, we reached the starting point for an approximately 8km round trek to Chauki Lake.
After parking our car, we sought guidance from a local to locate the trailhead. Though I had read descriptions of the trail being fairly easy, the reality hit us during the initial 1km of a steep ascent before reaching the more level plateau of the valley. Once we conquered that section, the valley unveiled itself before us, affirming that the effort was indeed worthwhile.

Continuing along the trail, navigation was straightforward, with little chance of getting lost. However, a new challenge emerged near the summit as we approached the lake. We needed to cross a river stream, and there was no apparent crossing point. Following the lead of other tourists, we found the most convenient spot, hopping from one substantial rock to another. Finally reaching the lake, its size was not as expansive as we had envisioned, but the mountain views were breathtaking.

On our way back to Juta village, we made a misjudgment. Upon reaching Chaukhi Lake, we spotted another trail leading to Juta village. Having read about the possibility of completing a circular route, it appeared to be an excellent idea for our descent. However, this choice proved to be wrong.

As we neared the valley plateau, it became evident that there was no viable way to cross the river. The river flowed swiftly, and its width posed a challenge. Unwilling to backtrack the entire way, we sought the calmest and narrowest section. Eventually, we identified the best option, though not without its challenges. Removing our shoes, we began the crossing. The water was freezing cold. At the midpoint, we contemplated turning back, but we pressed on and successfully crossed.
This experience serves as a cautionary note for those reading this post—be mindful not to make the same mistake.

Day 5: Mtskheta – Gori

Stephantsminda – Gori: about 250km

Mtskheta

The next day, we prepared for our journey down the Military Road, with our initial destination being the town of Mtskheta—one of Georgia’s oldest cities and among the world’s continuously inhabited urban areas.
Upon reaching Mtskheta, we parked our car. Before exploring the city , we took a break at Tatin Coffee Shop.

The town is relatively compact, with the focal point being the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, acknowledged by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. Interestingly, for us Europeans, the entrance to the cathedral was unexpectedly free of charge.

Having explored the cathedral, we took a leisurely stroll through the city before embarking on the final leg of our day’s journey to Gori.

Gori

An intriguing aspect of Gori is that it serves as the birthplace of Joseph Stalin, the leader of the Soviet Union. While there is a museum dedicated to Stalin, we chose not to visit it.
Arriving in Gori later in the afternoon, we opted for a leisurely stroll through the town. We also explored the Fortress situated above the city. I would stick to the pleasant exterior view next time.

Day 6: Gori – Uplistsikhe Cave Town – Batumi

Gori – Batumi: 279km

Uplistsikhe Cave Town

While Gori itself may not be a standout destination, the nearby Uplistsikhe cave town is an absolute must-visit. Recognized by archaeologists as one of the oldest urban settlements in Georgia, Uplistsikhe is situated approximately 10km from Gori and is currently on the UNESCO tentative list.

After breakfast, we made our way there. I would recommend exploring the cave town either early in the morning or late in the afternoon as it is quite exposed to the sun. Upon arrival, we parked in the designated area right in front of the entrance, purchased our tickets, and freely roamed the settlement. Walking into the caves, we envisioned how people once lived there.

Setting off on a lengthy journey, we headed towards Batumi in the afternoon following our visit to the cave town. While a portion of the route involves a highway, other sections take us along national roads characterized by heavy traffic and, in some instances, roads that are not impeccably maintained. There is a highway under construction but during our visit in July 2023 the travelling was not easy.

Batumi

Upon our arrival in Batumi, we encountered absolutely terrible traffic, requiring at least an hour to navigate through the city to reach our accommodation. Despite booking an apartment by the seafront a few kilometers away from Batumi city center, our assumption of private parking was incorrect. Parking in Batumi in July proved to be a “mission impossible”. Fortunately, luck was on our side as we managed to secure a parking space that became available just as we arrived. Observing the challenging parking situation, we opted not to consider using the car for the duration of our stay.

Days 7 & 8: Our stay in Batumi

Batumi, a Black Sea resort and port city, serves as the capital of the Georgian republic of Adjara. It is a blend of modern skyscrapers and weathered old buildings where locals still reside.

While some may choose to spend the entire day lounging on the beach, our inclination is always to explore the surroundings.

We took a walk through the streets, exploring the local shops and discovering a few coffee spots that caught our attention

Among them were:

1. The Batumi version of Starbucks: While bearing the Starbucks logo, the coffee shop presents a unique design distinct from the traditional Starbucks.
2. Kafune TrdelNik: Since Trdelník is popular in Prague, being sold on every corner of the city, we couldn’t resist trying the Batumi version.
3. CoffeeTopia: This coffee shop stood out with its intriguing interior design and good coffee.

Another attraction in Batumi is the Dolphinarium, but we chose not to explore it.

Day 9: Batumi – Tbilisi – flying home from our road trip to Georgia

On our final day, we got up early to navigate through Batumi without encountering traffic jams. Driving back to Tbilisi, we met with the Tbiliso Car Rent representative at the airport. After handing over the car, we checked in for our flight back home. This road trip was truly enjoyable, and we hope it inspires your own adventures.

• Instagram

In the spring of 2023, as the season for planning summer holidays approached, my teenage daughter suggested an unconventional destination.

Albania, must-visit country trending on Instagram. 

It sounded interesting. I had never considered Albania before, but I love the idea of exploring places beyond the typical tourist circuit. A quick check of the distance from Prague and our available time revealed that reaching Ksamil is a stretch. But navigating the northern part of Albania seemed feasible. Decision made. My daughters and I embarked on a road trip to Albania. It was in August 2023.

Practical insights:

The journey began with extensive map study and online research. Questions like the distance, the likelihood of driving on highways, and general expectations occupied my thoughts. Some outdated articles painted Albania as a “mafia” country, with car theft beyond the border. It is just so wrong.  Albania is amazing and I can not wait to return next year. 

• Mobile Data:

Unfortunately, Albania falls outside the “roam like at home” EU zone, a circumstance shared by other non-EU Balkan countries. For the most convenient access to mobile data, I recommend using Airalo.

Discovering Airalo has been a game-changer for me. If your phone supports e-SIM functionality, I highly recommend downloading it. This eliminates the hassle of constantly swapping physical SIM cards. Airalo allows you to effortlessly purchase e-SIM cards for nearly every country worldwide. Additionally, they offer regional SIM cards, such as for Europe or Africa. It truly works like magic.

• People: 

Albanians are a very welcoming nation. As three women exploring the country, we felt at ease and comfortable throughout our journey. Although we fortunately didn’t require any special assistance, I felt that if we needed one, we would get instant help. There is no problem with English in cities and tourist areas. People try to assist and if they don’t speak English, they will get someone to translate.

• Cash-Centric Culture:

Albania remains predominantly cash-oriented. While larger establishments, restaurants, and petrol stations accept cards, it’s advisable to inquire beforehand about their card payment policies.

According to a World Bank report highlighted in the newspaper, Albania holds the lowest percentage globally of individuals aged 15 and above using digital payments. In 2021, this figure stood at a mere 35%.

• Currency:

The official currency is the Albanian LEK. The Euro is widely used in Albania, with a straightforward conversion of 100  LEK = 1 Euro. Euros are commonly accepted for various transactions, ranging from beach chair rentals to small parking fees and local shops. Accommodation expenses can also be settled in euros. Local ATMs provide a convenient option for cash withdrawal, but be mindful of withdrawal fees, which vary among banks. I recommended to explore multiple ATMs to assess withdrawal fees before deciding on the most economical option.

• Driving in Albania:

Albanian roads exhibit varying qualities, with some sections in good condition and others riddled with potholes. Vigilance is crucial, even on double-lane highways. During our summer visit, we noticed numerous vehicles with Italian, German, or UK registrations, sparking curiosity about the influx of foreign tourists. However, a simpler explanation unfolded: many of these vehicles were owned by Albanians residing abroad, returning for their summer holidays.

Petrol stations are nearby of each other and easy to drive. They, in the majority of the cases, accept card payments. It is recommended to inquire.
Driving a diesel SUV, I found myself contemplating the diesel options available at petrol stations, namely Blu diesel and Euro diesel. Opting for Euro diesel is recommended, as it aligns with the quality standards observed in the EU. Even if the price is slightly higher,

Day 1: Prague – Belgrade

Prague – Bratislava – Budapest – Belgrate: 895km on highways

Highway stamps:

Necessary for Czechia, Slovakia, and Hungary. Serbia has toll gates. 

The stamps can be purchased online. Below are links for the official shops in each country.

– Czechia: https://edalnice.cz/en

– Slovak: https://eznamka.sk/en

– Hungarian: https://ematrica.nemzetiutdij.hu/en

Documents: 

Ensure you have your car documents and Green card insurance ready for border crossing control. Also, arrange written consent for driving someone else’s car, even if it belongs to a family member who isn’t traveling with you. 

We crossed all the borders during the trip with our Czech ID cards. We didn’t need passports at all. I still had them in my bag anyway, just in case.

Belgrade:

Arriving in Belgrade in the afternoon, we took the opportunity to explore the city center, enjoying its vibrant atmosphere with numerous restaurants and coffee shops.

Day 2: Belgrade – Durrës

Belgrade – Skopje – Pristina – Durrës: 770km.  Mostly on highways except for the last approximately 100km in Albania.

What is the best route?

Planning the route proved slightly tricky as Google Maps suggested a shorter but less favorable route through Montenegro’s winding roads. 

The quickest option was to drive from Belgrade to Skopje, and through Kosovo to Albania. When researching this option, I was getting some contradictory information. The questions I had in my head were: Is it safe to travel through Kosovo? Are going to spend a long time on the border post? Will we travel on highways? Are there any specific requirements to enter Kosovo? 

Driving through Kosovo

Despite the complexities surrounding Kosovo’s status as a self-declared country, taking this route turned out to be the right choice. 

We hit the highway in Belgrade and drove all the way towards Skopje. We continued and followed the direction of Pristina/Kosovo. Eventually, we got off the highway to follow the state road towards N.Macedonia/Kosovo border. Driving this road made me a little nervous. It was not in perfect condition. Luckily, it is only about 24km until you reach the border. 

Note: the EU Green car insurance card is not valid in Kosovo. You need to pull off at the border post and buy insurance at a dedicated place. We bought one for 15 days for 30 euros.

We crossed into Kosovo without a major delay on the border. And what a pleasant surprise. A great new highway leads from the border to Pristina and the Albanian border. 

While the border crossing into Albania was fast, the highway’s condition deteriorated. There is a double-line highway with a speed limit of 80km/h likely due to the less-than-ideal road conditions. But we made it all the way to Durrës.

Durrës check in

For me, one of the key considerations in planning a road trip is always PARKING. It turned out to be a critical factor in selecting accommodation in Durrës. Parking in Durrës during the peak season can be a daunting task, with cars seemingly filling every available space. This challenge is, I believe, due to the lack of underground garages in most apartment buildings and hotels.

To stay at the Wavebeachfront apartment was a perfect decision. With a limited number of private parking spaces, informing the owners in advance is essential, but their responsiveness and willingness to accommodate are truly amazing. Despite driving in and out of Durrës daily, they consistently ensured a parking spot for me, going the extra mile to assist with the somewhat tricky parking situation.

Choosing accommodation right along the beachfront promenade is ideal. You are steps away from the beach, ocean, and many restaurants, bars, and coffee shops. The walk on the promenade is super cool. 

The beaches are filled with chairs and umbrellas which you have to rent. There are only a few beach areas where you can put your own towel down. Nevertheless, we enjoyed the comfort of the rented equipment.

Day 3: Exploring Durrës city

The city stands as one of the oldest in Albania. With a rich history, it even claimed the title of Albania’s capital in modern history. What makes Durrës special? 

It is the history, beaches, and its role as a gateway to Western Europe; thanks to its strategic port location and proximity to the Italian coastline. 

In my eyes, Durrës wears a dual identity. The city, nestled around the port, resonates with the daily life of the locals, revealing the heart and soul of Durrës. On the other hand, the “beach” part of the city atmosphere has evolved around the holidaymaker’s buzz. 

About a 15-minute drive from our apartment brought us to Durrës city center. We headed to one of the watched, paid parking spaces. I am happy to pay the parking fee for the assurance that my car won’t be towed away by local authorities.

Our day began with a visit to Mulliri Vjeter coffee shop, the Albanian equivalent of “Starbucks.” This local coffee chain won us over with its unique interior design, inviting atmosphere, and, of course, excellent coffee, cakes, and sandwiches.

Walking around Durrës is easy allowing us to visit key points of interest

Day 4: Tirana

Durrës – Tirana: 38km, about 1h via SH2 highway.

The journey from Durrës to Tirana is easy, with a continuous highway leading the way. However, be prepared, the traffic can get hecting upon entering Tirana. If your destination is the city center, a helpful tip is to stay in the middle lane. The right lane tends to be congested with stationary vehicles, while the left often designates a left-turn-only lane, leaving you reliant on someone in the middle lane to allow you in.

Parking in the city center: 

Consider utilizing “Parking per Ju“, a convenient paid underground garage close to Skanderbeg Square, the heart of Tirana.

Places not to be missed

Skanderbeg Square:

Navigating Tirana’s city center on foot is straightforward, and like many tourists, our journey began at Skanderbeg Square. Covering a vast 40,000 square meters, the square’ is truly impressive.

Beyond Skanderbeg square

Blloku

Blloku, once an exclusive district reserved for the Albanian dictator, Enver Hoxha, the party elite, and their families, stood sealed off by police and secret agents during the communist era. Nowadays it is one of Tirana’s trendiest and liveliest neighborhoods.

During our visit, we explored the Enver Hoxha house, now vacant. However, the latest news from October 2023 suggest plans to transform it into an art center, accessible to the public.

In close proximity to the former residence, another another interesting building not to be missed is the Pyramid of Tirana. Initially inaugurated in 1981 as a museum, it underwent various roles post-communism, serving as a conference center and a NATO base during the Kosovo war in 1999. Presently, following renovations, it operates as an IT center for Creative Technologies.

We concluded our visit to Tirana with a bit of shopping. There are plenty of small shops which sell brands and non-brands to explore. Also, Toptani Mall is conveniently located near Skanderbeg Square. We enjoyed a cup of coffee and spent time exploring some of our favorite retail brands that, unfortunately, aren’t available in Prague.

Day 5: Berat 

Durrës to Berat: 90km, approx 1,5h

Easily accessible and ideal for a day excursion, Berat is often referred to as the “City of a Thousand Windows”. The journey took approximately 1.5 hours, with the first half cruising along the highway and the latter part weaving through the Albanian countryside on state roads. We chose to park at the Camper and Car Parking Hoxha which is conveniently located close to the town center.

Berat Castle

Prepare for a steep ascent if you choose to walk to the Berat castle area from the town center, particularly on a hot day like the one we experienced at 32°C at 10am. Alternatively, driving up to the castle is an option, exploring the area, and then returning to park in the city. Keep in mind that parking near the castle is limited.

With a history dating back to the 4th century BC, the Berat Castle is located on a stepped hill, offering beautiful views of the city below. We spent about 1.5 hours wandering through this ancient fortress, strolling along its walls, and exploring the various churches within its confines. 

The city

Following our castle exploration, we descended to the town, crossing the river on the New Bridge and continuing our stroll towards the historic Gorica Bridge on the opposite side. As one of the oldest Ottoman bridges in Albania, the Gorica Bridge adds to Berat’s charm. 

Before leaving town, we made sure not to miss Shtepia e Kafes Gimi. They offer delicious coffee, pancakes, and other treats. Note that during our visit, they accepted cash only.

After our coffee break, we embarked on the drive back to Durres, arriving in the middle of the afternoon, just in time to enjoy a bit of sun and the beach.

Day 6: Dhërmiu beach

Durrës to Dhërmiu Beach: 185km, 2 hours and 50 minutes

After exploring cities, we decided, it was time to enjoy a day on the beach. And we wanted to get to the Albanian Riviera, currently a trending destination. Albania’s coastline is divided by two seas—the Adriatic Sea in the north and the Ionian Sea, home to the Albanian Riviera.

Considering our time constraints during this trip, we could not make it all the way down to Ksamil, reserving that experience for our upcoming summer road trip in 2024. 

We chose Dhërmiu beach, apparently one of the most beautiful ones on the Albanian Riviera. 

How to get there

We took the SH4 Highway leading to Vlorë, often considered the starting point of the Albanian Riviera. At the onset of Vlorë, we transitioned onto the Vlorë bypass, navigating around the city and getting to a scenic route. Along this route, we pass by several spots perfect for pulling over and enjoying the view.

Eventually, we reached the LLogara pass, windy roads with very sharp turns to conquer. The road climbs up to over a thousand meters and reaches The Llogara National Park on the top. After reaching the highest point we started to descend, again on the windy road with sharp turns to reach our destination – Dhërmiu Beach.

Dhërmiu Beach

We found a parking spot in one of the local host-operated small paid parking areas. Luckily, we arrived fairly early as the parking spaces were taken quickly. After gathering our belongings, we walked down to the beach, reaching a beach promenade with various restaurants and bars. The beach itself is segmented into areas typically affiliated with individual restaurants. We chose a spot, that we liked and purchased our beach chair and umbrella. Unsurprisingly, the rental cost exceeded that of Durrës , totaling 20 euros. However, we were offered to enjoy an oversized bean bag complementing our two chairs and umbrella. Additionally, we were granted access to the restaurant’s facilities throughout the day.

The beach is covered with pebbles while the Durrës beach is sandy. The Ionic Sea is absolutely amazing—crystal blue, transparent, and pleasantly warm. What a perfect setup for a beach day while we still saw a lot from Albania during our drive. 

Day 7: Shkodër

Durres to Shkodër: 106km, 3hours!

It looked like a good idea to make a day trip to Shkodër. It turned out to be a regrettable decision—one I hope others can learn from. The mistake, I made, was planning the trip in the evening when there was an “evening” traffic. So according to Google Maps, it should have taken us around 1,5 hours to get there. However, the reality was different. The road between Durrës and Shkodër proved to be one of the most congested ones. Our 106km drive, initiated at 8 am, unfolded into a terribly slow 3-hour journey due to persistent traffic.

This challenging start undoubtedly influenced our perception of Shkodër and its attractions. 

Rozafa Castle

Our first destination was the Rozafa Castle, assumed as one of Albania’s significant fortresses. Parking at the castle is difficult. We managed to find a spot, but its legitimacy was questionable.

The expansive castle grounds offered beautiful views of Lake Shkodra and the entire city.

The city

After we explored the castle, we drove down to the city. To find parking seems to be mission impossible. We drove round and round and we eventually decided it might not be worth it anymore. Setting off for the road back to Durrës, we spotted a parking space and decided to take it. At last.

Exhausted, we walked to the city center and gratefully settled into the first coffee shop we found. After the much-needed break, we wandered around for a bit. We visited one of our favorite retailers to get the strength for our trip back.

The return journey mirrored our earlier struggles, prompting us to conclude that the experience was not worth it.

I guess, the lesson learned is to consider incorporating Shkodër into your entry or exit Albania plans. The city is very close to the border with the Montenegro. Ironically, the border post, we planned to drive through on our way back to Prague the next day. 

Day 8: Durrës – Sukošan (returning from the road trip to Albania)

Via MonteNegro & Bosnia and Hercegovina. About 620km, 10hours

Time to commence our journey back as our available time prevented a longer stay. Contemplating the route, my primary concern revolved around potential delays at the border, particularly at the Serbia-Hungary checkpoint (entry to the Schengen zone), where we had seen an extensive queue. Eager to avoid queueing for too long, we opted for an alternative route through Montenegro. It meant driving through Shkodër.

Having learned the lessons from the previous day, we set out in the early morning hours to reach Shkodër without the bad traffic congestion. The strategy paid off, allowing us to proceed through Montenegro and Bosnia and Herzegovina. The drive through Bosnia and Hercegovina was on really windy scenic roads. Occasional lapses in mobile signal coverage made me hope our car would remain trouble-free. Although time constraints prevented us from exploring Bosnia and Herzegovina extensively, it has earned a place on our bucket list.

By late afternoon, we arrived in Sukošan, Croatia. Seizing the opportunity, we enjoyed some beach time before returning to our daily life in Prague.

Day 9: Sukošan – Prague

Sukošan – Zadar – Graz – Prague: 967km, approx. 11hours

The final stretch of our drive unfolded seamlessly, and we successfully returned to Prague. Our time in Albania was a delight, and without a doubt, we’re looking forward to returning.

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