Author: Iva Bowker

Upon returning from the road trip to Albania in 2023, I instantly knew that I will do another road trip through Balkan. So I have instantly started to plan a new trip, allowing more time to visit the places I didn’t have time for previously.

This time around, I decided to spend some time in North Macedonia 🇲🇰, travel across Albania 🇦🇱, and visit Bosnia and Herzegovina 🇧🇦 on the way back.

Day 1: Prague 🇨🇿 – Bratislava 🇸🇰 – Budapest 🇭🇺 – Belgrade 🇷🇸: 895km on highways

Having driven this route last year, I knew what to expect. It’s a pretty easy and straightforward drive with highways all the way. I bought the highway stamps online for Slovakia https://eznamka.sk/en and Hungary https://ematrica.nemzetiutdij.hu/en. Serbia uses toll gates where card payments are accepted, so there is no need for cash. Note: I have the yearly Czech highway stamp, but I here is the link to the official online shop https://edalnice.cz/en

Learning from my own mistake regarding accommodation, this time I found and booked an apartment right in the middle of Belgrade. The beauty of it is not only the walking distance to the main Belgrade square and street but also the secure parking. They charged me 20 EUR per day, but I am always prepared to pay for secure and guaranteed parking rather than trying to find a parking space on the street. Therefore, I can only recommend the Skadarlija Suites in Belgrade.

Day 2: Belgrade 🇷🇸 – Skopje 🇲🇰 – Ohrid 🇲🇰: 604km

We got up early to do as much driving for the day as possible without traffic. It took us about 5 hours to get to Skopje, including the border crossing between Serbia and N. Macedonia. We waited about 20 minutes at the border post, but it can be much longer, especially during the full holiday season.

There is a highway all the way between Belgrade and Skopje. N. Macedonia has got the toll gates as Serbia does. There was no need for the local money, I paid in Euro.

As with all my trips, I purchased the e-SIM for N. Macedonia from Airailo app (unfortunately, N. Macedonia is not part of the regional European e-SIM). I must admit, that the signal was not stable in parts of the country. It worked well in and around big cities, but for driving purposes, I had to use the car-installed navigation at times. The best tip is therefore to download offline maps for N. Macedonia, which I will definately do the next time.

Skopje

The capital city of N. Macedonia, is interesting. The new, highly decorative architecture, especially in the city center with many statues, makes it a truly unique place. The city center is pretty small and easy to navigate around.

As always, I wanted to park in a secured parking place. I found the GTC garage and it seemed to be well-recommended. Upon arrival and only when I drove in, I realized it was not for public use (it seems it used to be, but not anymore). So do not make the same mistake! There was a parking place right opposite the garage on the street, so I decided to take it.

To my big surprise, the city was very quiet with only a few people around on Sunday.

Leaving Skopje behind, we set off early in the afternoon to reach the final destination of the day – Lake Ohrid.

Lake Ohrid

The first part of the road from Skopje to Ohrid is on the highway. There were a few tolls on the way, every section was either 1 EUR or 0.5 EUR. The second half drives through the mountain valleys and passes, so expect some curves.

When I was looking for accommodation, I considered two options: either to stay directly in the city or in one of the hotel complexes outside with direct access to the beach and lake. I decided on the second option and it was the right choice for us. After the hot, long day, it was perfect to just put our luggage in the apartment and jump into the lake for a swim. The apartment I stayed in was Park Beach Apartment.

Day 3: Exploring Ohrid 🇲🇰

Ohrid is one of the largest cities in North Macedonia and it has a charm and history to it. We got up in the morning, took a short drive, and parked at Parking Centar. It is paid parking but right in the center, on the lake promenade. You can pay for the parking in Euros.

What I realized is that in N. Macedonia, they do accept Euros but usually return change in Macedonian Dinars (MCD). Therefore, it is good to keep small Euro notes and change – for example, for parking or renting beach chairs. Cards are pretty much accepted everywhere as well.

If I were to describe the old part of Ohrid city, it is charming with very narrow streets spreading from the lake up the small hill towards the fortress. We did a small round to see the key highlights.

Church of Saint John the Theologian: An easy walk from the parking place through the narrow streets and alongside the lake. While walking toward the church, which is apparently one of the most photogenic and Instagrammable places in Ohrid, we passed by another important church.

The Church of Saint Sophia. We looked from the outside only, but it is considered one of the most important monuments in the country. There was a big information board related to the church history to read.
Once we reached the Church of Saint John the Theologian, we admired the really stunning views of the lake. Again, we decided not to visit inside. For reference, there is a fee to be paid to enter.

Samoil’s Fortress: After taking pictures at the church site, we continued the incline towards the fortress. It is a bit of a walk through the pass, partially leading through the forest. We reached the fortress entrance only to unfortunately realize that it is not open on Mondays. Well, at least now you know.

Ancient Macedonian Theater: Walking down the hill again to reach the city, we passed by the Ancient Theater. It was built around 200 BC and during Roman times, it was used for gladiator fights.

After the ascent, we got back to the Old town and wandered around the main street with shops and cafés. We noticed that there are many shops selling Ohrid pearls, which was pretty interesting. The story came up when looking on Google. The link to the article is here: North Macedonia’s Top-Secret Pearls.

Lake Ohrid: Laying on the sunbed and relaxing around the oldest and deepest lake in Europe with crystal-clear water was the perfect idea for the rest of the day.

Day 4: Ohrid 🇲🇰 – Saranda 🇦🇱

Even though it doesn’t seem far distance-wise, the travel time between Ohrid and Saranda is around 6 hours. Crossing the border between N. Macedonia and Albania took us around 15 minutes. The roads in Albania were good, but the majority of the trip is through mountain passes with one-lane roads. Only a short stretch of the road is on the double-lane highway. The drive therefore requires a lot of attention and is more demanding than driving on a big double-lane highway.

Saranda

Saranda is a busy town, and navigating through it was a little tricky. It seems that they changed the street directions and Google Maps did not reflect it. I was being sent to streets with one-way traffic in the opposite direction. After a bit of circling around, I gave up on Google Maps and used Mapy.cz instead. This navigation eventually got me where I needed to go. It is not the first time Mapy.cz saved me; it was the only navigation that could point me to the correct place.

As always, I paid a lot of attention to the parking availability, and it was one of the reasons why I chose Saranda Terrace apartments with their underground garage. It is for sure a jackpot in a town like Saranda where there are cars parked everywhere.

Upon settling in, I had one thing I wanted to do: visit Whats SUP Saranda, the SUP and kayak rental business I have been following on Instagram for a while. I wanted to meet the owner in person. What a lovely occasion it was. And off to the beach afterward, of course.

Day 5: Ksamil

Trending on Instagram where and in fact it was the reason, why we visited Albania last year.  The drive from Saranda takes about 30min. The idea for the day was: rent a beach chair in one of the beach clubs and stay put, doing nothing but enjoying the sunbathing. And that is what we did. 

Day 6: Day trip from Saranda 🇦🇱 to Corfu 🇬🇷

To get to Corfu, Greece, takes 30 minutes if you choose the fast-speed ferry. We used Finikas Lines. It cost us 50 Euros per person for a return ticket, but I believe it was worth it. There is another operator with a slower ferry that takes 1 hour to get to Corfu.

I went to buy the tickets at the Finikas office located close to the Saranda port. The ferry is obviously popular, so we could not go on the following day but one day after. I didn’t mind, as our stay in Saranda was flexible, but if you have a tight schedule, it is a good idea to buy tickets ahead of time. Be advised that the tickets are fixed to the time of departure and return you choose; they are not flexible.

We chose to depart at 9 am Albanian time, which means 10 am Greek time. That is another thing we needed to get our heads around. We arrived in Corfu at around 10:30 Greek time, and we decided to leave with the ferry at 16:00 Greek time. That option allowed us around 5 hours to explore the Old Town of Corfu.

It takes about 20 minutes to walk to the Old Town. Many people seem to use the shuttle buses (around 12 Euros per person) or Hop on Hop off bus. I don’t see any value in those. While walking towards the town, we passed by shops and restaurants. Eventually, we passed by the first attraction, the New Venetian Fortress.

The New Venetian Fortress: It was built between 1576 and 1645 and served an important role in Corfu’s protection. We decided not to climb up to allow ourselves enough time to explore the Old Town. Once we passed by the New Venetian Fortress, we merged into the beautiful narrow streets of the Old Town. It is simple to navigate; you just keep walking. The town is busy with tourists, shops, and cafés. The vibe is special and there is no need for a map, I felt.

Continuing through the streets, we eventually got to the Spianada, the large park dividing the Old Town from the Old Fortress.

Old Fortress: Standing on the top of the hill, it is a sight not to be missed. Not only is the fortress amazing, but the views of the city and the Ionian Sea are also priceless.

We returned back to town after visiting the fortress, wandered around the city, and found a taverna to enjoy some traditional Greek food.

By 3:30 pm Greek time, we were back at the ferry terminal, got through the ID controls, and arrived back in Saranda at 3:30 pm Albanian time.

Day 7: Day trip from Saranda to Blue Eye and Gjirokaster 🇦🇱

Blue Eye

One of the places that Instagram made famous and therefore a “must-see” spot, along with Ksamil beaches. So, what is the Blue Eye? It is, in fact, a natural spring phenomenon. Nobody has ever been able to dive deep enough to find the real source of the stream. The water is being pushed up with such strength and speed that it is simply impossible (so far) to get deeper than 50 meters down.

Arriving at the Blue Eye is pretty straightforward. There is a dedicated parking place literally off the main road and it is paid. The rate depends on how long you want to stay in the area. I paid the minimum for 0-3 hours, which was 200 LEK (2 Euros). Once I parked the car, we walked on the paved road, which shortly got us to the natural area entry gate. The entrance fee per person was 0.5 Euros. It is approximately 2 km on the paved road to reach the Blue Eye. We walked, but they offer electric scooters for rent or there is even a tourist train.

Gjirokaster

After visiting the Blue Eye, we set off to drive to Gjirokaster. It is one of the most visited towns in Albania, and it certainly has its charm! It is called the “Stone City” and is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

I found parking at the Free parking lots. Then we walked up the hill. Here are some attractions not to be missed:

The Castle of Gjirokaster: The history of the castle dates back to the 3rd, perhaps 4th century, and I must admit, to me, this is the most impressive and best-preserved castle I saw in Albania. The entrance fee was 4 Euros per person. The castle area is huge, it is self-navigating, and the information is provided on big boards. As it sits on the top of the hill, it also provides beautiful views of the city.

The Gjirokaster Bazaar: The real heart of the town with charming colorful streets filled with souvenir shops and cafés. We passed by only on the way to the castle, leaving to enjoy the vibe after the castle visit. As it was lunchtime, we sat down in one of the local pubs and enjoyed our food.

The Bazaar Mosque: Built in the 18th century, it is the only one that was preserved and not demolished during the communist era. We did not enter the mosque as there was a service of worship.

Cold War Tunnel: Another interesting landmark that might be worth visiting is the Cold War tunnel. It is a tunnel and bunker complex built during the communist Enver Hoxha regime. It was supposed to serve as a hideaway place for the communist elites. There are several examples of such bunkers around Albania. There are guided tours every hour. We didn’t arrive at the right time plus we visited the BunkArt in Tirana, so we decided to skip this one.

Day 8: Saranda – Dhermi Beach – Vlorë

It was time to leave Saranda behind and continue the trip through Albania. We packed up in the morning and drove to one of the most beautiful beaches – Dhermi. We knew the beach because we visited it last year. However, we were once again stunned by the drive along the coastline. The views are simply breathtaking.

Dhermi beach

We arrived at Dhermi Beach about 1 hour and 45 minutes later and parked the car close to the beach. There are several paid parking spots, with the cost for the day being 5 Euros. I recommend arriving early (by 10 am) because it gets very busy afterward. The beach is long and filled with beach chairs and bars. We went to the same place as last year, but there are many to choose from. The cost for two beach chairs, an umbrella, and a bean bag was 15 Euros.

Vlorë

After spending the day on the beach, we continued to Vlorë. I chose Ralph’s Apartments and I highly recommend it. The apartment is beautiful with many extras provided, they have secure parking, and the hosts are absolutely amazing!

The Sea Promenade: I would say it is the real heart of the action in the evening. There are numerous restaurants and bars as well as a small amusement park for kids. It’s definitely a place to hang around and grab dinner.

Day 9: Vlorë – Durrës

Vlorë

Exploring Vlorë in the morning, we started the day off by getting breakfast at our favorite Albanian coffee shop chain, Mulliri Vjeter. I always wonder why we can’t have something like this back home; it’s the best.

Walking on the main street towards the Old Town, we passed by:

• Muradie Mosque: Built in the 16th century, the mosque is open to visitors but requires adherence to a dress code. As we were in shorts and cropped T-shirts, we did not qualify to enter.
• The Flag Square: This is the main square in Vlora, featuring a massive Independence Monument.

Old Town: It is literally only a few streets but worth wandering around. There are many restaurants and cafés to sit down and rest.

Durrës

It was about lunchtime when we came back to the car and started our drive to Durrës, a place I keep returning to since my first visit last year. We checked into the same apartments as with our previous visit: The Wave Beachfront Apartment. The hosts are simply fantastic. And it was about time to spend a few hours on the beach cooling off on another hot day.

Day 10: Exploring Durrës

We spent the morning exploring Durrës. For more details on what to see and do, you can refer to my post here.

Day 11: Day trip to Tirana

It is about a 50-minute drive from Durrës to Tirana. It was awesome to be back again. We parked at the same garage as last time, close to Skanderbeg Square. We strolled around the city through both familiar and new streets. For more details on what to see and do in Tirana, you can refer to my post here.

Day 12: Durrës 🇦🇱 – Mostar 🇧🇦 – Sarajevo 🇧🇦

Durrës to Mostar: 379km, 6h

Mostar to Sarajevo: 125km, 2h

We set off very early in the morning from Durrës to drive to Mostar. The reason was not only the distance but also our experience from last year. The road between Durrës and Shkodër gets extremely busy; the 110km can take 3 hours to conquer during the day. So the idea was to get to Shkodër before the traffic starts. After reaching Shkodër, we continued to the closest border between Albania and Montenegro. The border crossing was smooth, and we continued the drive. The entire drive between Durrës and Mostar is on national roads (except for a short stretch of highway between Durrës and Shkodër) with many curves, valleys, and mountains. It is beautiful but requires constant attention and time.

We reached Mostar around lunchtime. There are many paid parking places around the Old Town. I parked here, and it cost me 20 Euros per day.

The Old City of Mostar is beautiful, with the key highlight being Stari Most (Old Bridge). It was originally built in the 16th century when Mostar was part of the Ottoman Empire. However, it was destroyed during the 1990 conflict and eventually rebuilt with UNESCO’s support. Crowds of tourists gather on the bridge to watch the brave guys jumping down to the Neretva River.

The Old Bazaar cannot be missed, offering a large number of shops selling everything you can imagine. We wandered through the streets and eventually reached the Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque, which was originally built in the 17th century but had to be rebuilt after the war.

After lunch in one of the local restaurants overlooking the Old Bridge and the river, we set off to reach Sarajevo by the early evening.

As always, I chose accommodation in close proximity to the city center but with private parking. We stayed in Cadordzina Apartment, and it was a perfect choice.

Day 13: Sarajevo 🇧🇦

It is a city with an incredible history, where East meets West and different cultures blend seamlessly. It was part of the Ottoman Empire until 1878 and then became part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until 1918. The First World War was triggered by the assassination of Franz Ferdinand d’Este in Sarajevo. Later, it was part of socialist Yugoslavia and hosted the Winter Olympic Games in 1984. During the Bosnian War, Sarajevo endured the longest siege in modern history. It is a city that is clearly meant to be explored.

We started the day with breakfast in one of the local coffee shops.

The best way to begin exploring the city is to visit the East meets West point. By looking at the West side and then the East side, one can clearly feel the cultural difference.

Walking East:

• Baščaršija Bazaar: Built during the Ottoman Empire in the 15th century, it offers a unique atmosphere. There are so many shops with jewelry, traditional sweet treats, souvenirs, etc., that you could easily spend half a day just wandering around.
• Gazi Husrev-Beg Mosque: Located in the heart of the Bazaar, this is the main Muslim mosque in the city, built in the Ottoman style in the 16th century.
• Sebilj: While wandering around Baščaršija Bazaar, you will not miss the wooden public water fountain originally built during the Austro-Hungarian monarchy.

Walking West:
The atmosphere feels very different here. One place I didn’t want to miss was the Cathedral of Jesus’ Sacred Heart. The cathedral was built in the Neo-Gothic style, with one of its inspirations being the St. Tyn’s Cathedral in my home city of Prague.

When in Sarajevo, one cannot miss the Latin Bridge. This site is historically significant as it was where the assassination of Franz Ferdinand d’Este took place, an event that triggered the start of World War I.

Another interesting building is Vijećnica, the Sarajevo City Hall. Built at the end of the 19th century during the Austro-Hungarian monarchy, it showcases the city’s rich architectural heritage.

Day 14: End of road trip through Balkan. Return to Prague 🇨🇿

As it goes with all trips, at some point, it comes to an end. On day 14, we left Sarajevo in the early hours of the morning to drive the whole day and get back to Prague.