Uncategorized - My Road trips

Wildlife Expedition: Safari Road Trip in Africa 🇿🇦🇳🇦

Iva Bowker on December 26, 2023

While living in South Africa during the COVID-19 pandemic, we took a safari road trip to Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in South Africa and Etosha Pan in Namibia. Join me on the journey to explore the fascinating wildlife.

Few words about South Africa

South Africa is easily accessible with major airlines operating international flights to these cities. A crucial travel tip is to always collect luggage upon arrival in Johannesburg or Cape Town, even for connecting flights within the country.

Mobile data: For mobile data, I recommend using the Airalo app, which allows you to download a data e-SIM card for countries worldwide. It’s easy and hassle-free. I activate the data e-SIM in my phone settings upon arrival and I have instant access to the internet.

The official currency is the South African Rand, and ATMs are widely available. While cards are accepted, carrying some cash is beneficial. Petrol stations are found in all cities, with attendants offering services without the need for you to leave your car.

In South Africa, they drive on the left-hand side of the road, similar to the UK. The main roads between cities are generally in good condition, although it’s advisable to watch for potholes. Once you get off the main road, expect to drive on dirt or gravel roads.

Load shedding, or power outages, is common in South Africa due to power generation challenges. The ESP app provides real-time information on scheduled outages, but many establishments operate independently using generators or solar panels.

Crime is a reality, and blending in, avoiding visible displays of wealth, and taking precautions such as not engaging with strangers are advised. When driving, keeping belongings secure and refraining from stopping in rural areas contribute to a safer and more enjoyable experience in the country.

Few words about Namibia

The population of Namibia is approximately 2.8 million. The capital city is Windhoek, where major airlines operate flights. English is the official language, though most people speak Oshiwambo as their mother tongue. Afrikaans and German are also well understood.

The official currency is the Namibian Dollar. Similar to South Africa, ATMs are widely available, and cards are accepted. Petrol stations, available in all cities, provide services with attendants without requiring you to leave your car. As in South Africa, they drive on the left- hand side of the road.

Namibia is generally considered a safe country, but awareness, especially in large cities, is advisable.

Our trip

We started our safari road trip in Africa from our base in Port Alfred. The initial drive we undertook was to Upington, covering a distance of 926km, which occupied the entirety of our day.
The good news is that anyone interested in following our journey can fly directly to Upington Airport. Flights are available with airlines such as South African FlyAirlink.

Upington

Upington is a city founded in 1873 and situated in the Northern Cape province of South Africa, along the banks of the Orange River.
Nortern Cape is South Africa’s largest province, covering nearly a third of the country’s territory. Despite its size, it has the smallest population among all the provinces.

We chose the accommodation just outside Upington at Oranje Rus Resort.

Entrance to Orange Rus resort, South Africa — Resort Entrance

Orange Rus Resort close to Upington in South Africa — Resort Entrance

Upington – Twee Rivieren, Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park: 279km, 3hours

On the next day, we woke up early to reach our destination: the entrance to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park entrance sign — Entrance sign

Park Entrance building, Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park — Entrance sign

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa 🇿🇦

Map of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier park — Park map

Stretching across the territories of both Botswana and South Africa, the park covers an extensive 37,000 square kilometers. In 1999, a treaty was signed between South Africa and Botswana to establish this conservation area. Officially opened in May 2002, the park is managed as one entity, although tourist facilities continue to operate independently.

The park is a malaria free area.

Travelers benefit from immigration and customs arrangements that allow them to enter the park in one country and depart from the other. The primary entry and departure point between the two nations is the Two Rivers/Twee Rivieren Gate, equipped with camping facilities, chalets, shops, and a restaurant.

Empty house in KTP, South Africa — House in the desert

The accommodation within the park is managed by SANParks. Various camps are available for exploration, and details can be found on the SANParks website. We stayed in two camps: Twee Rivieren and Mata Mata.

Twee Rivieren

Twee Rivieren Camp is the largest rest camp in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. It provides many facilities, including camping grounds, chalets, a swimming pool, shops, a petrol station, and a restaurant. The camp is on the border post between South Africa and Botswana.

Chalet in Twee Rivieren Rest Camp, South Africa — Twee Rivieren Rest Camp

Mata Mata

Mata Mata is located along the Auob River and near the border between Namibia and South Africa. The camp provides a range of facilities, including camping sites, self-catering chalets, a swimming pool, shop or fuel station.

Cottage in Mata Mata Rest Camp — Mata Mata entrance

Game drives

Most of the park has gravel roads, so it’s better to drive a 4×4. To see more animals, it’s best to go on drives early in the morning and late in the afternoon when the animals are most active. Every drive is different, and you never know what you might come across.

Here are some cool animals we saw:

Honeybadger

They are known for their fearless and aggressive behavior, earning them a reputation as one of the most fearless animals in the animal kingdom. They are skilled hunters and scavengers, preying on a variety of small mammals, reptiles, birds, insects, fruits, and honey.

Honey Badger

African Wild Cat

It is in appearance similar to domestic catsThey are skilled hunters, preying on small mammals, birds, and insects. They are solitary and mostly nocturnal, avoiding larger predators.

Lion

The park is known for its black-maned Kalahari lions, which are well adapted to the arid conditions of the desert. These majestic predators roam the park and are often seen resting under acacia trees or hunting for prey.

Jackal

Jackals are opportunistic omnivores, feeding on small mammals, birds, insects, fruits, and carrion. They are known for their distinctive vocalizations, including howls and yips.

African Wild cat seen in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa — African Wild Cat

Border Crossing: from South Africa to Namibia

After few days spent in KTP in South Africa we continued our safari trip to Namibia.

Crossing the border between South Africa and Namibia served as a reminder of the convenience of our EU Schengen Zone. Initially, on the South African side, we parked the car and underwent various procedures. The individual “stations,” marked with numbers, required us to go through each one: a check of car documents, passport inspection, and customs verification. Once completed, we drove a few meters to the Namibian side and repeated the process. The entire procedure took a good hour, even during the low-travel period of Covid, when there were minimal people at the border.

Border between SA and Namibia — Boarder between SA and Namibia

SA to Namibia border post — Boarder between SA and Namibia

Lake Oanob Resort – Namibia 🇳🇦

Mata Mata – Lake Oanob Namibia: 482km, 5,5hours

Our next stop during our safari road trip was Lake Oanob Resort, surrounded by mountains and hills. The resort offers spacious chalets overlooking the dam, along with activities such as hiking, boat rides, canoeing, or aqua-cycling. Taking a break from the drive, we explored the area around the lake and enjoyed some water activities.

Lake Oanob Resort reception area — Lake Oanob Resort

Chalet at Lake Oanob Resort — Lake Oanob Resort

View of the Lake Oanob. Safari road trip in Africa — View of the Lake

Etosha National park, Namibia 🇳🇦

Lake Oanob Resort – Etosha: 515km, 5,5hours

Etosha National Park is known for its expansive salt pan visible even from space. Despite this wildlife gathers around the waterholes, ensuring almost certain game sightings.

View of Etosha pan, Namibia — Etosha pan

The optimal way to experience the park is by staying in the on-site accommodations. These camps, managed by Namibia Wildlife Resorts, demand careful planning and booking well in advance, often a year or more. During the quieter period of the Covid times, we were fortunate to be among the few guests, providing a high level of flexibility.

Road towards Etosha National Park, Namibia — Road towards Etosha

Etosha Entrance Gate, Namibia — Road towards Etosha

Okaukuejo rest camp

Upon arriving at the entry gate to Etosha Park, our vehicle and accommodation booking were checked. Once inside, we proceeded to our initial camp, Okaukuejo. This camp is the largest and is well-known for its amazing waterhole where animals gather during both day and night.

Okaukuejo reception area, Etosha — Okaukuejo reception area

Cottage in Okaukuejo camp — Okaukuejo reception area

The self-driving experience in a nearly empty park was an adventure in itself. The wildlife in Etosha is truly amazing. Here are some highlights of the animals we saw around Okaukuejo.

Black Rhino

Namibia currently hosts the world’s largest population of black rhinos, predominantly present in Etosha National Park. Sightings around the park and waterholes are frequent during the dry season, typically from May to October. Despite the great conservation job done in Namibia, many conservationists worry that the rhino poaching common in South Africa may eventually extend across the border. I really hope that this proves to be wrong and that we will be able to continue admiring those beautiful animals.

Lion

Lions are common in the park and we spotted them on several occasions.

Female Lion laying in the grass in Etosha, Namibia — Lions

Jackel

Jackals are slender and swift creatures that typically live in pairs. These pairs engage in various activities together, such as eating and sleeping. They exhibit strong territorial instincts and collaborate to defend their territory. Additionally, jackals hunt together as a coordinated team.

Jackal on the road in Etosha National park — Jackal on the road

Close up of jackal in Etosha — Jackal on the road

Hyena

Etosha has got the largest population of Hyena in Namibia. Hyenas are carnivorous mammals known for their powerful build, scavenging habits, and distinctive laughs.

Day trip to Olifantsrus Camp

While exploring the park, we made a day trip to Olifantsrus Camp. As Etosha’s newest camp, Olifantsrus is the first accommodation option in the park exclusively designed for camping, providing an opportunity to feel a little closer to the incredible African bush.

Olifantsrus Camp in Etosha — Olifantsrus Camp

Nature walk way in Olifantsrus Camp — Olifantsrus Camp

Halali Rest Camp

The next camp we stayed in was Halali, located approximately between Okaukuejo and Namutoni, our final destination. Halali provides self-catering cottages and a campsite. Although the camp has a swimming pool, it was unfortunately not operational during our stay. A short walk from the campsite leads to the floodlit waterhole, offering game viewing opportunities during both the day and night.

Halali self-catering cottage in Etosha — Entrance to Halali Rest Camp

We continued exploring the wildlife.

Giraffe

Giraffes are beautiful animals. They spend most of the day munching on Acacia trees. When drinking from the waterholes, they are always super cautious as the drinking position makes them very vulnerable.

Giraffes around the waterhole in Etosha — Giraffes walking on the road

Elephants

Elephants are iconic. The largest land animals on Earth, are known for their intelligence, social behavior, and distinctive features, including their long trunks and tusks. They spend the day walking around and eating.

Walking Elephant in Etosha — Walking Elephant

Elephant drinking from the waterhole, Etosha — Walking Elephant

Namutoni Rest Camp

The last camp we stayed in was Namutoni. A premium setup with comfortable rooms, a restaurant, and a swimming pool. Originally established as a control post during the mad cow disease epidemic of 1897 in Namibia, Fort Namutoni was built by the Germans. It functioned as a police post and later as a South African army base. and later as a South African army base, the fort was declared a national monument in 1950 and opened to tourism in 1957.

Namutoni camp, Etosha — Namutoni fortress

Swimming pool in Namutoni, Etosha, Namibia — Namutoni fortress

Like all other locations in Etosha, Namutoni’s surroundings offer fantastic game viewing. The highlight of our stay was spotting a leopard near the camp. Leopards are notoriously difficult to spot, and we were hoping to see one throughout our entire stay in Etosha.

Leopard resting under the tree close to Namutoni in Etosha — Resting Leopard

Leopard close to Namutoni camp, Etosha, Namibia — Resting Leopard

Leopard yawning, Etosha, Namibia — Yawning Leopard

During one of our day trips, we ventured to Onkoshi Camp. Along the way, spotting animals, we reached this exclusive camp perched on wooden structures, away from the public self-drive routes. Onkoshi Camp is situated right on the border of the park’s characteristic salt pan, offering a premium experience away from the public self-drive routes. Operating mainly on solar power, Onkoshi is a low-impact camp.

Entrance to the Onkoshi Camp in Etosha National Park — Entrance to the Onkoshi

View of chalets in Onkoshi camp, Namibia — Entrance to the Onkoshi

Driving back from our safari road trip in Africa

The drive back was lengthy and unexpectedly led to a stop in a place I had never imagined staying. On the first day, we drove from Namutoni to Windhoek, covering 540km with an estimated travel time of 5.5 hours. However, the journey took much longer as we needed to get our COVID tests done on the way, hoping for negative results on time to cross the border back into South Africa.

The original plan for the second day was to drive from Windhoek to Upington in South Africa, covering about 1000km. As we approached the border, we still hadn’t received the Covid test results, so we had to make a plan and find a place to stay.
We stopped at a sign for Grunau Country Hotel, which seemed to be in the middle of nowhere, and I had some doubts. To our surprise, it turned out to be a wonderful spot! We enjoyed a lovely dinner and awesome wine—just perfect.

Grunau Counry Hotel in Namibia — Grunau Country Hotel

Courtyard, Grunau Country Hotel — Grunau Country Hotel

Eventually, we received our Covid test results in the evening and set off for our 1250km drive back home to our house in the Royal Alfred Marina.

Port Alfred Marina, view at the river, South Africa — Port Alfred Marina

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Unexplored Eastern Cape: Adventure Road Trip in South Africa 🇿🇦

Iva Bowker on December 19, 2023

In 1999, I landed in South Africa for the first time, unaware that it would eventually become my second home. Over the years, I’ve spent a significant amount of time in the country, and whenever I discuss it with others, Cape Town often takes center stage. When it gets to South Africa, many tourists follow the well-known path to Kruger Park or drive down the Garden Route from Port Elizabeth (now named Gqeberha) to Cape Town.
How about exploring something different? Let me introduce you to some of the most amazing places in the Eastern Cape and provide you with ideas for adventure road trip.

South Africa is a vast and multicultural country, covering approximately 1.2 million square kilometers. To put it into perspective, it’s about a third of the size of Europe excluding Russia. With a population of around 60 million, South Africa has 11 official languages, with Zulu (23%), Xhosa (16%), Afrikaans (14%), and English (10%) being the most spoken. English is the official institutional language. Notably, South Africa is the only country with three capital cities: Pretoria (administrative and executive), Cape Town (legislative), and Bloemfontein (judicial).

Practical Insights:

South Africa is a welcoming country with friendly people. Landing in Johannesburg or Cape Town feels like entering a different world, where even a restroom attendant greets you warmly.

Getting there: It is easy, with major airlines operating flights to international airports in Johannesburg and Cape Town.

One important note: Always collect your luggage upon arrival in Johannesburg or Cape Town, even if you have a connecting flight. In most cases, airlines will tag your bags to the final destination within the country. This can be confusing, so do not make the mistake of leaving the International terminal without your luggage. After collecting your bags, proceed to the Domestic terminal to check them in again if you have a connecting domestic flight.

The best way to explore the Eastern Cape is to fly to Gqeberha (Port Elizabeth). Domestic flights from Johannesburg and Cape Town are frequently operated by local airlines such as FlySafair or FlyAirlink.

Currency: The official currency is the South African Rand (1 USD = 18,5 Rand), and
ATMs are widely available. While cards are accepted everywhere, having a few Rands in cash can be beneficial.

Driving and Petrol stations: In South Africa, they drive on the left-hand side of the road, similar to the UK. The main roads between cities are generally in good condition, although it’s advisable to watch for potholes. Once you get off the main road, expect to drive on dirt or gravel roads.

Petrol stations can be found in all cities, but it is advisable to check the distances between cities due to the country’s vast size. Gas station attendants are available and offer services such as filling up your tank, cleaning your windows, and checking oil and windshield wiper fluid. You do not need to step out of your car for these services.

Load shedding (power outages): It is a common occurrence in the country due to a lack of power generation capacity, with nationwide rotational outages at various stages persisting for many years. The Eskom Load Shedding app is downloadable from the Apple App Store or Google Play. It provides information on when electricity will be switched off during the day in the city or area you are in. The stages of load shedding can vary and change rapidly, so it is advisable to keep app notifications on while in South Africa.

Despite load shedding, the majority of hotels, restaurants, shops, etc., continue to operate by using their own power generators or, more recently, solar panels. The solar business has experienced significant growth in South Africa.

Crime: Is a reality in South Africa, and it’s essential to be aware of it. Having spent the last 25 years in the country without encountering any issues, I can offer some important advice. Generally, try to blend in and look like a local rather than a tourist. Avoid wearing visibly expensive jewelry, and handbags, or carrying expensive cameras.

Refrain from engaging with strangers who may approach you asking for money. Never leave your belongings visible in the car, and always lock your doors when driving.

When driving through the countryside, resist the urge to stop and give sweets to children who may wave at you near the roads. It’s crucial not to wander outside after dark; a romantic walk on the beach in the moonlight is not advisable. Taking these precautions will contribute to a safer and more enjoyable experience in South Africa.

Map of places to explore

Places I have selected to explore are pointed on the map. Many of them are accessible only via a dirt road or require off-road travel with a 4×4 vehicle (e.g.Toyota Landcruiser). I am making a note with each place.

Tsitsikamma National Park

Gqeberha (Port Elizabeth) – Tsitsikamma National Park: 116km, 1hour 15min on N2 highway. Accesible without 4×4 vehicle

Situated on the border between Eastern and Western Cape, it is a haven for outdoor enthusiasts. It offers a range of activities, including hiking, kayaking, snorkeling, and bird watching, amidst indigenous forests teeming with ancient Yellowwood trees and diverse birdlife.

For the best experience, staying at the accommodation inside the park, managed by SAN Parks, is ideal. However, due to its popularity, booking well in advance, sometimes a year ahead, is necessary. Alternatively, accommodations in close proximity to the park allow for daily access to its activities.

Tsitsikamma view of the ocean — View of the ocean

Tsitsikama National Park — View of the ocean

Among the highlights at Tsitsikamma:

Walk on the Suspension Bridge: Offering breathtaking views of the coastal landscape and the Storms River, the suspension bridge spans the dramatic Storms River Mouth.

Kayaking up the Storms River: A guided kayaking tour through the captivating gorge is a must-do activity, marked as a definite highlight of my visit.

Zip Line: A fun activity suitable for everyone over 6 years old.

Storms River Gorge, Road trip in South Africa — Suspension bridge

Adventure Trail to the Waterfall: Although approximately 6km, the trail takes 3-4 hours to complete due to its adventurous nature. Conquering big rocks, it requires a certain level of fitness and is not recommended for those with health conditions.

Walk to the waterfall — Trail to the waterfall

Trail to the waterfall in Tsitsikamma, South Africa — Trail to the waterfall

Bungee Jumping: While I haven’t personally experienced this activity, the Bloukrans Bridge Bungy is one of the world’s highest commercial bungee jumping sites at 216 meters above the Bloukrans River, located on the N2 Highway in the Tsitsikamma area.

Jeffreys Bay

Tsitsikamma National Park – J-Bay: 48km, 32min on N2 highway. Accesible without 4×4 vehicle

Commonly referred to as “J-Bay,” it attracts surfers from around the globe to its famous Supertubes, known for hosting international surfing competitions.
It is one of my favorite places to hang around for a day or two, enjoying the beach, and watching the dolphins and whales. Of course, I admired the top surfers riding big waves, trying to do some surfing myself. And more, I love shopping in the big Surfer brand outlet stores.

When I am in J-Bay, I always park at the J-Bay village in front of the Billabong Outlet store. That is the original place where one can enjoy the surf culture at its best. There are shops, coffee shops, and surf schools. You can easily reach the beachfront and walk on the beautiful beach for miles.

Rainbow over the J-Bay village — Rainbow over J-Bay

J-Bay village motto — Rainbow over J-Bay

Addo Elephant National Park

Jeffreys Bay – Addo Elephant National Park: 115km, 1hour 15min. Accesible without 4×4 vehicle

Two elephants walking in Addo park, South Africa — Herd of Elephants

Herd of elephants

I can’t even remember how many times I’ve visited Addo Elephant National Park. Whether as a day trip, staying inside the park for a few nights, or choosing accommodations just outside, each visit has been unique.

Initially established to protect the last remaining Addo elephants, the park has evolved into a diverse conservation area, home to a variety of plant and animal species. It’s particularly renowned for its large elephant herds, lions, buffalo, rhinoceros, various antelope species, and even dung beetles.

The park has two main entrances, and after registration and fee payments, we receive a map, making it easy to drive around while adhering to park rules.

Bufallo in Addo Park in South Africa — Bufallo

Accommodation

Staying inside the park in the self-catering cottages run by SAN Parks is the ideal way to explore. While basic, the cottages provide everything needed for a comfortable stay. Due to its popularity, reservations need to be made months in advance.
Alternatively, accommodations outside the park are available. We stayed in the upmarket Africanos Country Estate and it was lovely.

Africanos Country Estate close to Addo — Africanos Country Estate

Africanos Country Estate in South Africa — Africanos Country Estate

Game drives

Driving in Addo Park is an adventure of its own. Spotting wildlife is unpredictable, and you never know what animals will appear. While elephants, warthogs, various antelopes, zebras, and dung beetles are almost guaranteed, there’s a good chance to spot jackals or buffalo. Spotting lions can be tricky, with some visits we were lucky and others not.

Adrenaline Addo

It is a fantastic destination for adventure lovers, offering a ride on the highest, longest, and fastest double zip line in South Africa. You can also try the giant swing or canoeing on the Sundays River. We tried all the activivities and spend an enjoyble time doing that.

Zip line in Adrenaline Addo adventure centre, South Africa — Zip line

Giant swing, Adrenaline Addo. Adventure road trip in South Africa — Zip line

The Bedrogfontein 4×4 Trail.

The Bedrogfontein 4x4 Trail entrance, South Africa

It is situated approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes from Addo Elephant National Park in the Baviaanskloof Nature Reserve. This 45km off-road adventure is a genuine 4×4 challenge, navigating through rugged terrain, river crossings, and steep ascents. The trail offers breathtaking views of the surrounding wilderness in a remote setting. It’s worth noting that once you get on the trail, you’re on your own, as there is minimal to no mobile phone coverage for the majority of the journey.

The Bedrogfontein 4x4 Trail — The Bedrogfontein 4×4 Trail

Mountain Zebra National Park

Addo Elephant National Park – Mountain Zebra National park: 210km, 2hours 45min via N10. Accesible without 4×4 vehicle.

It is a conservation area dedicated to the preservation of the Cape mountain zebra. The park offers a unique opportunity to observe these endangered zebras in their natural habitat. Beyond zebras, the park is home to a variety of wildlife, including buffalo, cheetahs, and various antelope species.

Entrance to Mountain Zebra National Park, South Africa — Entrance gate

View of a tree inside Mountain Zebra National Park, South Africa — Entrance gate

Accommodation

The accommodation inside the park is managed by SANParks, offering various types of lodging. We stayed in the family cottages and the remote Mountain Cottage.

Family Cottage in the Mountain Zebra National park, Eastern Cape — Family Cottage

Mountain Cottage in the Mountain Zebra National park, South Africa — Family Cottage

Cheetah tracking

It is a popular activity offered by experienced guides. We did it a couple of times and always enjoyed the thrill of tracking the cheetah. The excitement built as we were getting closer to these stunning animals.

Walking group tracking cheetah in South Africa — Cheetah Tracking

4×4 tracks

Mountain Zebra National Park offers three tracks within its boundaries for exploration. This off-road drive is an adventurous experience, allowing you to explore areas beyond the main roads of the park. This activity requires a 4×4 off-road vehicle to navigate the diverse and challenging terrain.

Exploring 4×4 track

Game drives:

The park’s main roads are easy to drive on and allow one to explore the park while spotting different types of animals.
There are also game drives with a professional guide organized by the park.

Hogsback

Mountain Zebra National Park – Hogsback: 210km, 3hours. Accesible without 4×4 vehicle.

Hogsback is an enchanting mountain village known for its forests, waterfalls, and beautiful landscapes.
Hogsback is often referred to as a place of magical beauty. The village offers hiking trails leading to places such as the Madonna and Child waterfall. One can explore the indigenous forests and enjoy small the hospitality of the artistic community.

There are plenty of B&Bs to stay in. We really like staying at Hogsback Inn, established in 1880. They offer hotel rooms as well as separate cottages, and the hotel has a real charm.

Hogsback Inn rental house, South Africa — Hogsback

Madonna and Child Waterfal
The hike leads through the indigenous forest. The first part involves a steep descent, leading to the waterfall hidden in the middle of the forest. The walk continues through the forest, allowing admiration of some very old Yellowwood trees. It concludes in the bottom part of Hogsback Village.

Madonna and Child waterfall, Hogsback, South Africa — Madonna and Child Waterfall

800years old Yellowood tree in Hogsback, Eastern Cape — Madonna and Child Waterfall

The Kettlespout Hiking Trail
The trail is of a moderate level of difficulty with no extra steep ascends or descents. The journey begins at the Hogsback Arboretum and continues way through the indigenous forests filled with ancient Yellowwood trees. At the end of the trail is the Kettlespout Waterfall.

Hike towards Kettlespout Waterfall in South Africa, Hogsback — Towards Kettlespout Waterfall

Kettlespout waterfall in Hogsback — Towards Kettlespout Waterfall

Rhodes, Drakensberg Mountains

Hogsback – Rhodes: 320km, 5 hours. 4×4 off road car is needed.

Rhodes is a small village located in the Drakensberg Mountains, a good 2 hours away from the nearest town and accessible through a dirt road. Named after the British imperialist Cecil John Rhodes, it offers a true escape from urban life. The village houses are built in well-preserved Victorian architecture. In the evening, there are no lights in the village and no shops, so it is crucial to bring everything needed. There is only a small pub where locals gather in the evening.

During our time in Rhodes, we enjoyed two awesome excursions – a drive to Tenahead and skiing in Tiffandel.

View of Drakensberg Mountains, Rhodes, South Africa — Drakensberg Mountains

Tenahead Lodge

It is a luxury retreat situated 30km from Rhodes. The journey to Tenahead is an adventure in itself, with a narrow dirt road winding through the mountain ranges, taking at least an hour to reach the destination. The scenery along the way is breathtaking, and upon arrival, the lodge offers fantastic hospitality. We had a great lunch at the lodge’s restaurant while taking in the stunning views.

View from the Tenahead lodge patio — Tenahead Lodge

Tiffindell Ski Resort

Yes, indeed, there is (or was) a skiing resort in South Africa! Located about 25km from Rhodes, getting there is an adventure in itself. The journey involves a dirt road through the mountain ranges, passing by Naude’s Neck Pass, the third-highest pass in South Africa. As you approach, a small strip of white snow becomes visible, drawing closer with each turn.
For us, excellent skiers was the slope “fun” but the overall experience of skiing in Africa was truly unforgettable.

Very sadly, the skiing resort didn’t open this year, and according to the website, it is currently for sale.

Naude's Nek Pass, South Africa — Naude’s Nek Pass

Naude's Peak view of the Drakensberg mountains — Naude’s Nek Pass

Kob Inn in Transkei

Rhodes – Kob Inn: 277km, 5,5hours. 4×4 off road car is needed

About Transkei

It is a distinctive region in the Eastern Cape of South Africa, bears historical importance as a Bantustan—a partially self-governing area established during the apartheid era. Founded in 1963, it was designated as a separate homeland for the Xhosa-speaking Thembu people. Despite gaining nominal independence in 1976, this status was not internationally recognized. In 1994, following the end of apartheid, Transkei was reintegrated into South Africa. Nonetheless, life in Transkei still echoes its original lifestyle.

There are several hotel lodges scattered along the Transkei coastline. One of them is Kob Inn.
Situated about 1.5 hours away from the closest city Willowvale, the journey to reach Kob Inn involves navigating a less-than-ideal dirt road. However, the destination itself is a paradise. With long, wide sandy beaches and a beautiful coastline, Kob Inn invites outdoor activities such as fishing, hiking, or canoeing.

Kob Inn restaurant with view — Kob Inn restaurant

Sunrise at Kob Inn, Transkei — Kob Inn restaurant

During our stay at Kob Inn, we did a hike to another Transkei lodge, Mazzepa Bay. This half-day activity was nothing short of fantastic, featuring walks on empty beaches with cows basking in the sun, ascending cliffs for panoramic views, observing a seal resting on a large stone, and witnessing dolphins and whales in the ocean.

Cows on the beach, Kob Inn, Transkei — Cows on the beach

Seal at the rock, Transkei — Cows on the beach

Morgan Bay

Kob Inn – Morgan Bay: 103km, 3hours. 4×4 off road car is needed

Morgan Bay is another stunning location bordering Transkei on the South African wildcost. There is a small village and the absolutely fantastic Morgan Bay Hotel. While the hotel may be pricier compared to other places, the quality of service is exceptional, making a stay there a true treat.
We spent two days in the winter months, so our activities revolved around hiking.

Morgan Bay hotel, South Africa — Morgan Bay hotel

Walk on the Cliffs:

The views of the ocean from the cliffs above Morgan Bay are breathtaking. Spending hours there, walking, enjoying the scenery, and observing dolphins and whales in close proximity made it truly memorable.

Ocean view, South Africa, Morgan Bay — Cliffs, Morgan Bay

Hike to Kei River Mouth:

This half-day activity began with a beach walk leading to higher, bushy grounds, passing by the lighthouse along the way. Although the lighthouse is closed to public, we were fortunate; on that day, maintenance was underway, and we were allowed to climb all the way up. The walk continued down to the ocean, where we climbed over many rocks to eventually reach Kei River Mouth. Completing a loop, we walked on the back road, enjoyed a snack at the local golf course restaurant, and returned to our hotel. This unspoiled route has no shops, so carrying water and snacks is essential for this hike.

Climbing rocks on the way to Kei River Mouth — Walk on the beach

Port Alfred

Morgan Bay – Port Alfred: 220km, 2hours 40min. Accesible without 4×4 vehicle.

Situated on the Sunshine Coast it is a charming coastal town with the Kowie River winding through it and opening into the Indian Ocean. The town’s beautiful beaches make it a popular destination for beach lovers and surfers. Port Alfred also has a rich history, reflected in its historic architecture and landmarks. The Royal Alfred Marina adds a unique touch to the town, with its network of canals and waterfront properties.

Royal Port Alfred Marina, South Africa — Royal Port Alfred Marina

Marina in Port Alfred — Royal Port Alfred Marina

Beaches

The pristine wide long beaches invite you to take a long walk while enjoying the sound of the ocean.

East Beach is liked by local surfers as the East Pier break is one of the most powerful in South Africa. There is a parking right at the entrance to the beach.

East Beach, Port Alfred, South Africa — East Beach

Kellys, the Blue Flag beach, is a place for beginner/intermediate surfers to enjoy the less powerful waves as well as for bodyboarders or swimmers to enjoy the ocean. Parking is right above the beach.

Sunrise at Kelly's beach in Port Alfred, South Africa — Sunrise at Kelly’s beach

Kelly's Blue flag beach, Port Alfred — Sunrise at Kelly’s beach

Surf School

The local Shaka Surf School is being run by David MacGregor, the multiple South African longboard champion surfer. I became a surfer myself thanks to David.

Surfing in Port Alfred — Surf lesson with Shaka Surf School

River activities

The Kowie river flows through the town, providing a fantastic place for activities like boating, canoeing, SUP paddle boarding, waterskiing, skurfing or fishing.

I can highly recommend a local business Outdoor Focus. Carey Webster and her team will get you sorted with any outdoor activity in Port Alfred.

Kowie river in Port Alfred — Kowie river

Skurfing at the Kowie river in Port Alfred — Kowie river

Golf

The Royal Port Alfred Golf Club is one of four golf clubs in South Africa that have been granted the right to use the “Royal” prefix. The club features well-maintained fairways and greens, complemented by coastal views. What I find unique about the golf course is the real nature touch – any time we play golf, we see antelopes scattered around munching on the grass or a tortoise crawling slowly around.

Royal Port Alfred Golf Club, South Africa — Royal Port Alfred Golf Club

Sandboarding

The East Beach dunes are ideal for sandboarding activities, and a lot of fun for everyone.

East Beach sandbording activity, Port Alfred — Sandboarding

Sandboarding on the East beach dunes in Port Alfred South Africa — Sandboarding

Adventure Road trip in South Africa – last stretch

The drive from Port Alfred to the airport in Gqeberha (Port Elizabeth) will take approximately 1 hour and 45 minutes.

Wishing you a wonderful adventure road trip in South Africa! 🇿🇦

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Enlightening 8-Days Road Trip to Israel 🇮🇱

Iva Bowker on December 7, 2023

The decision to go on a road trip to Israel arose while searching for an easily accessible and COVID-regulation-free country in 2022. Our road trip was purely tourist-oriented; it doesn’t adhere to the footsteps of any specific religion. As a result, there may be places we miss that hold significance for certain people. I am pleased that we managed to explore this culturally unique country and I am very hopeful that travel will be possible again shortly.

Practical Insights:

As usual, I checked the visa requirements and found that we do not need to worry. However, it depends on the country of your origin and the passport you hold.

Arrival to Israel:

Upon presenting our passports, we received a printed card instead of a stamp. This card is crucial to keep, as we needed it when checking in at the accommodation and when leaving the country.

Currency:

The currency is the Israeli New Shekel, with an exchange rate of about 1 USD = 3.7 ILS (Dec 2023). ATMs are easily accessible, I recommended to keep some cash. We used it f.e. to pay for parking outside Tel Aviv. But in the majority of the places I paid with my card.

Driving:

Driving around Israel is not difficult; the roads are in good condition, and drivers generally obey the rules. In big towns, drivers can be slightly more aggressive, and honking is a “cultural” habit. It’s recommended to use Waze navigation, which displays speed limits. As always, my recommendation is to drive defensively and let the locals pass by. It is your holiday at the end.

Petrol Stations:

Finding a petrol station is easy. The challenge is that there are often “fuelmats”, and you can get fuel only by working with the machine, which preauthorizes your card and manages the payment after you finish. It is an easy process until the moment all instructions are written in Hebrew. Fortunately, I have always found someone to assist.

Parking:

Parking in Israel can be difficult, especially in big cities like Tel Aviv or Jerusalem. There are paid parking areas, but it will cost you. I really recommend everyone to choose accommodation with private and guaranteed parking space. Many hotels will offer parking but they have only limited amount of spots. Therefore I always check customer reviews related to parking when choosing accomodation.

Shabbat:

The Israeli Day of Rest starts on Friday afternoon and continues until Saturday evening. Tel Aviv’s Shabbat differs from Jerusalem; shops are closed in Tel Aviv on Saturday, but the Jaffa beachfront remains lively. Jerusalem is more conservative, with more closed businesses. However, the Arab community’s businesses in Jerusalem remain open. It’s better to be prepared and assume that Saturday is a quiet day.

Mobile Data:

For mobile data, I recommend using the Airalo app, which allows you to download a data e-SIM card for countries worldwide. It’s easy and hassle-free. I activate the data e-SIM in my phone settings upon arrival and I have instant access to the internet.

Day 1: Tel Aviv – Jaffa

Upon our early morning arrival in Tel Aviv and completion of immigration procedures, we took a taxi to our hotel. I selected the Embassy Hotel Tel Aviv, with 24-hour reception located in very close proximity to the beach. After we woke up, our day started with a walk along the 7km beach promenade, extending all the way to Old Jaffa. It is a favorite among both locals and tourists, providing a great place to enjoy beach activities.

Beach promenade, road trip to Israel — Tel Aviv-Yafo beach promenade

Beach in Tel Aviv - Yafo — Tel Aviv-Yafo beach promenade

Old Jaffa:

Jaffa is one of the oldest ports in the world, with a history dating back thousands of years. It is mentioned in various ancient texts, including the Bible. Stepping into Old Jaffa takes you to a different era compared to modern Tel Aviv. We walked past ancient houses, passing by galleries, and small shops. The main square is dominated by the Clock Tower. There were seven Clock Towers constructed in Ottoman Palestine. The additional towers are placed in Safed, Acre, Nazareth, Haifa, and Nablus. The one in Jerusalem was destroyed.

Following our exploration of Old Jaffa, we walked back to the beach promenade, continuing towards Neve Tzedek—the initial Jewish neighborhood established outside Jaffa. Navigating through the town, we eventually returned to our hotel.

Old Jaffa, Clock Tower in the background — Old Jaffa, Clock Tower

Stairs in Old Jaffa, Israel — Old Jaffa, Clock Tower

The Beach

The rest of the day we spent on the beach, where the rental of beach chairs and umbrellas was well organized. We approached a vending machine, chose the desired quantity of chairs and umbrellas, completed the payment via card, and received a printed receipt. We then handed the receipt over the the beach attendant to get settled at our beach spot.

Day 2: Tel Aviv – Akko – Haifa

Tel Aviv-Yafo – Acre (Akko): 114km, 1,5 hour

It was time to hit the road the next day. I rented a car from Hertz and picked it up from their city office, just about a 10-minute walk from our hotel.
We loaded our suitcases and started to drive. I put on the Waze navigation and the funny thing happened – it started to speak Hebrew 😀. The lesson learned: adjust your navigation settings before hitting the road. Navigating out of Tel Aviv and onto the highway, my daughters took charge of my phone and resolved the language issue.
The navigation directed us to a parking area situated right behind the walls of the Old City. The parking was free of charge.

Akko is the local Hebrew name for Acre. It is one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements on Earth. It played a crucial role during the Crusader’s times. The most important place to see is the Knights Hall.

The Knights Hall
This Fortress and the nearest buildings functioned as a hospice and a hospital for the many pilgrims who came to the Holy Land during the Crusaders period in the 12th and 13th centuries.
It was awarded a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

As we were visiting after the Covid pandemic, I didn’t organize tickets to enter the upfront. We arrived and bought it on the spot. It is, nevertheless, something that I would consider looking into if I planned the trip again.

We obtained the headphones and explored the fortress at our own pace while listening to the history of this awesome place.

The Knights Halls, Akko, Israel — The Knights Halls

Acre, The Knights Halls — The Knights Halls

After visiting The Knights Halls, we walked through the Old Town and found a great street food place to enjoy the local food.

The Turkish Bath House:

Our visit transported us back in time to when this place served as the social center of the city. The citizens used to gather here to exchange the latest gossip.

The Templars Tunnel:

This is a must-see attraction. The 150-meter-long tunnel extends from the Templars fortress in the west to the city’s port in the east. There was great sea view once we reached the end of the tunnel

After exploring Old Akko, we set off to reach our accommodation in Haifa.

Day 3: Haifa

The reason I chose to stay in Haifa for a day was to explore a few landmarks in the city and enjoy some time on the beach. Haifa, the third-largest city in Israel, stretches from the Mediterranean up the north slope of Mount Carmel.

Our day began with a ride on the Haifa Cable Car, ascending Mount Carmel to visit the Stella Maris Monastery.

Stella Maris Monastry, Haifa, Israel — Cable Car

From the mountain’s peak, we decided to walk down towards the middle of the Baha’i Gardens, assuming there was an entrance. It turned out to be quite a walk. Disappointment struck when we discovered that the gardens were closed to the public on Monday, contrary to information provided on various websites. Perhaps the opening hours were adjusted during the Covid time, but this information was not reflected on the official websites.

As, we couldn’t explore the gardens, we decided to experience at least the Carmelit, the underground funicular railway. After a bit of a struggle to locate the nearest station and some walking, we finally reached Golomb station and took the ride to the center of town.
Upon returning to our accommodation, we packed up and spent the rest of the afternoon at Bat Galim Beach.

Golomb station, Carmelit, Haifa — Golomb Station

Carmelit in Haifa, Israel — Golomb Station

Day 4: Nazareth – Gan HaShlosha National Park – Jerusalem

Nazareth

Haifa – Nazareth: 45km, about 40min

It was time to pack up in the morning, leave Haifa behind, and continue on our journey. The first destination of the day was Nazareth, the town of Galilee and the home of Mary, the mother of Jesus, as mentioned in Luke’s Gospel.

The city center of Nazareth is situated in a flat area, but the town extends to the hillside. Due to traffic conditions, or another reason, Waze navigation directed us to the hillside before guiding us to the city center. The inclines were steep, streets very narrow with numerous curves and blind spots, making the drive down a true adventure itself.

The house of Mary foundations in the Basilika of the Annuciation, Nazareth — The house of Mary

We parked in one of the private lots close to the main attraction, the Church of the Annunciation. This church is one of two contenders for the site of the Annunciation, where the angel Gabriel is believed to have appeared to the Virgin Mary, announcing the birth of Jesus. The church is believed to be where the house of the Virgin Mary originally stood.

Inside the Basilica of the Annunciation, Nazareth — Nazareth

Gan HaShlosha National Park

Nazareth – Gan HaShlosha park: 35km, 40min

Around lunchtime, we found ourselves at a crossroads, needing to decide our next destination. We had two options: continue towards the Galilee Lake or explore Gan HaShlosha National Park with its naturally warm water lakes. While I would assume that the majority of tourists would choose option 1, we opted for option 2.
The lakes at Gan HaShlosha were amazing. We had a picnic lunch under the trees, swam in the lakes, and enjoyed the sun. It became evident that this is a destination not frequented by many tourists, as the majority of visitors were local.

Lakes at Gan Hashlosha Park, Israel — Gan HaShlosha National park

Gan Hashlosha Nationa park, Israel — Gan HaShlosha National park

Gan HaShlosha National Park – Jerusalem: 155km, 2h 15min

The final destination for the day was Jerusalem. I set up the navigation, and we hit the road, anticipating a journey of about 1.5 hours. However, reality proved a bit more complex. After driving for approximately 20 minutes, we reached the West Bank border. It was then that I realized the remainder of the trip would continue through West Bank territory. This didn’t seem like the right option, not only for security reasons (considering it was me with my two daughters in the car) but also because of concerns about the validity of the rental car insurance in the West Bank.

I made the decision to turn around, facing the challenge that both Waze and Google Maps insisted on the West Bank route. To outsmart the navigations, I input Haifa as our destination and, after about 30 minutes of driving, switched it to Jerusalem. This strategy worked, as the navigation found a route via the Yitzhak Rabin Highway (Route 6), and late that evening, we finally arrived in Jerusalem.

The most crucial aspect of planning our stay in Jerusalem was securing accommodation with guaranteed private parking. I dedicated a substantial amount of time to this search, and it proved to be a worthwhile investment.

Given the busy nature of Jerusalem, I couldn’t imagine arriving in the evening and attempting to find parking—it would be a “mission impossible” task. During my search, I also took into account reviews from other people. While I came across places offering private parking, the reviews often discouraged me, with many indicating that the parking was tight and difficult.
I consider myself fortunate to have found The Haneviim Court – Isrentals apartments. The building had a spacious, easily accessible underground garage, making parking hassle-free. Additionally, the apartment was located approximately a 10-minute walk from the Jerusalem Old City—a perfect and convenient place to stay.

Day 5-6: Exploring Old Jerusalem

The moment we stepped into Old Jerusalem, we felt like we had entered a different world. The city is divided into four quarters: The Jewish Quarter, The Armenian Quarter, The Christian Quarter, and The Muslim Quarter. Each quarter is unique

The Christian Quarter:

With the Via Dolorosa, the path that Jesus took, compelled by Roman soldiers, on his way to crucifixion. We met numerous prayer groups walking from one station to another along this path. The journey concludes at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, considered the holiest site for Christians worldwide, housing Jesus’s empty tomb, where he was buried and resurrected.

Jesus Tomb, Jerusalem — Jesus Christ Tomb

Via Dolorosa, one of the stops, Jerusalem — Jesus Christ Tomb

The Jewish Quarter:

This quarter represents calmness, characterized by houses of Ultra-Orthodox Jewish families leading their everyday lives.

The Western Wall Plaza, home to the famous Western Wall, is situated here. The areas for men and women are segregated, to approach the wall, one must choose the appropriate area.

Unfortunately, we missed the Western Wall Tunnels as tickets for the days we were in Jerusalem were sold out.

Western Wall Plaza, Jerusalem — Western Wall Plaza

Street in Jewish Quarter, Jerusalem — Western Wall Plaza

The Muslim Quarter:

It is characterized by bustling streets and vendors offering a variety of products. As the largest and most populous of the four quarters, it stretches from the Lions’ Gate in the east, along the northern wall of the Temple Mount in the south, to the Damascus Gate—Western Wall route in the west.

The Temple Mount:

As the third holiest site for Muslims after Mecca and Medina, it’s a must-see place. Access is limited to certain days and hours. While we couldn’t make it on our first day, we woke up early on the second day for an amazing experience. Walking through the empty streets of Old Jerusalem around 7 am, we reached the Temple Mount as some of the first visitors. This allowed us to experience and absorb the unique vibe of this place.

Temple Mount area, Jerusalem — Temple Mount

Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem — Temple Mount

The Armenian Quarter:

A town area in which Armenians formed a self-sustaining community. The enclave includes churches, schools, public and social institutions, residences, and historical monuments. Central to it is the St. James Armenian Convent and the Armenian Patriarchate.

Armenian Quarter, street sign — Street sign

Armenian Quarter in Jerusalem — Street sign

Walls of Jerusalem

To see Jerusalem from a different perspective, we did a walk around the Walls of Jerusalem. There are 2 sections, so we did one, had a coffee break, and then did the other one. We really enjoyed it as it offered views of the entire city.

Day 7: Jerusalem – Masada Fortress – Dead Sea – Jerusalem

Masada

Jerusalem – Masada: 99km, 1,5hour

Visiting Masada and the Dead Sea makes for a perfect day trip from Jerusalem, and key recommendations are: arrive at Masada early in the morning, it does get hot there. Don’t forget to take water with you. And book entry tickets in advance.

We visited Israel just after the Covid crisis, I didn’t feel the need to book tickets. Luckily, as we were among the first visitors, we managed to buy tickets on the spot. But we were asked if we had an online reservation.

Parking at the lot below the main entrance hall, we chose the cable car ride to reach the Masada fortress over the voluntary walk that some tourists undertake.

Masada is a fortress in the Judaean Desert, offering beautiful view of the Dead Sea. Originally built as a palace complex during the early Roman Empire by King Herod the Great, it stands as a symbol of the ancient kingdom of Israel. Masada recounts the story of its violent destruction and the heroic last stand of Jewish patriots against the Roman army in 73 A.D.

Cable Car to the Masada fortress — Cable Car to Masada

Fortress Masada in Israel — Cable Car to Masada

Ein Bokek, Dead Sea

Masada – Ein Bokek: 19km, 20min

We completed our exploration of Masada around 10:30 am, and the heat was already intense. We had a cool drink at the entrance coffee shop and then continued to the Dead Sea.

I studied the Dead Sea beaches a lot. It is not always easy to grasp where to go. Many resorts have private beaches but those are for their clients only. Anyway, the place for the half-day Dead Sea experience is Ein Bokek public beach. It is equipped with facilities like toilets, beach showers, chair rentals, and beach guards. The only drawback is that Dead Sea mud isn’t freely available; you can purchase it at a local shop near the beach.

We parked at the paid parking space opposite the Dead Sea Mall. Note that there are park meters, and cash was required during our visit—perhaps they’ve upgraded to card payment machines by now.

Floating in the Dead Sea is truly amazing, and we spent a delightful afternoon savoring the experience.

Ein Bokek Beach — Ein Bokek public beach

View of Ein Bokek, Israel — Ein Bokek public beach

View of the Dead Sea in Israel — Dead Sea

Day 8: Jerusalem – Tel Aviv – return to Prague from our road trip to Israel

On the final day of our road trip, we packed up in Jerusalem to enjoy a half-day at the Tel Aviv beach before catching our flight back to Prague. Returning the car was convenient, thanks to the Hertz rental office right at the airport terminals.

The road trip to Israel was truly amazing, and I hope tourists will be back soon to this beautiful, culturally rich country.

Tel Aviv Beachfront, Israel — Tel Aviv Beachfront

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Enchanting 9-Day Road Trip to Jordan 🇯🇴, the home of Petra

Iva Bowker on December 3, 2023

As October comes to a close, Europe experiences a drop in temperature, prompting many to seek warmer destinations to extend the summer vibes. Following visits to Dubai and Israel during this period, the road trip to Jordan emerged as the ideal choice.

Practical insights for the road trip to Jordan

Jordan Visa and Travel Essentials:

Before booking our flight, I checked the Jordan visa requirements. This time, an e-visa was necessary, and I applied through the official page of the Jordan Ministry of Interior: Jordan E-Visa.

Jordan Pass:

Consider the Jordan Pass for seamless entry to tourist landmarks. It offers numerous advantages, saving time and eliminating the need for individual entry tickets. Our e-visa was complimentary by entering the Jordan Pass number in the visa application. For more information, visit Jordan Pass.

Mobile Data:

Discovering Airalo was a game-changer, especially for phones with e-SIM functionality. Download it to avoid the hassle of swapping physical SIM cards. Airalo allows easy purchase of e-SIM cards for almost every country, including regional options like Europe or Africa. I opted for the Jordan 30-day, 3GB data plan for USD18.

Local Currency:

The official currency is the Jordanian Dinar (JOD). Cash was essential, especially for accommodation payments, as many places required it. ATMs were available for cash withdrawals, and cards were accepted at shops, restaurants, and petrol stations.

Taxi:

In Amman, we relied on Uber for safe and efficient city travel.

Car Rental:

Choosing Monte Carlo Car Rental was a wise decision. They delivered the car to our hotel, and the process was seamless, with paperwork and payment done by card. Returning the car at their office near Amman airport was convenient, and the company provided excellent service, including full insurance and no surcharge for a second driver. Check out my Google review.

Driving in Jordan:

Driving in Jordan was a straightforward experience. Departing from Amman on a Sunday likely contributed to an easier exit from the city, avoiding major urban rush hours. The main Jordan Desert Highway was smooth, while some other roads demanded heightened awareness due to the presence of potholes.

Dress code

Modest dress is advisable. I have definately avoided shorts and tank tops in the cities and historic areas. I wore t-shirts and skirts covering the knees and felt comfortable doing so. On the other hand I felt comfortable wearing t-shirts and little longer shorts around Dead Sea, in Wadi Rum desert or in Aquaba.

Day 1: Discovering Amman

We arrived in Amman during the early morning hours, taking a taxi to reach our hotel. Finding an accommodation with a 24-hour reception ensured a seamless check-in process. We stayed in Shams Alweibdeh Hotel Apartments. After few hours of sleep, we started our exploration of Amman. Given the city’s size, we decided to use Uber for our first destination – the Amman Citadel.

The Amman Citadel

Located on the highest hill in Amman, the Citadel is a place to see artifacts spanning the Bronze and Iron Ages, along with remnants from the Roman, Umayyad, and Byzantine periods. Presenting our Jordan Pass at the entrance, we proceed to explore the area.

Roman Theater:

Our journey continued with a walk from the Amman Citadel to our next destination, the Roman Theater. The history of the place dates back to 2 AD. It seated up 6000 people.
Making use of our Jordan pass we entered the site. It is impressive. Climbing all the way up the stairs, sit there for a bit and observe the city was absolutely worth it.

Rainbow street

After visiting the Roman Theather, our journey led us to the Grand Husseini Mosque. Unfortunately, ongoing construction and renovations spoiled our view of the mosque. Up next was the Rainbow street. We had walk uphill to reach the street. Rainbow streets is a plesant place with coffeshops and shops. We set down in one of the restaurants to have some lunch.

The Amman Citadel, Jordan — The Amman Citadel

The Roman Theather, Jordan — The Roman Theather

Our exploration of Amman continued through the busy Downtown streets as we wanted to see The Duke’s Diwan house, which served as the city’s first post office. I must admit that we nearly missed the house in the busy street. After taking a picture we concluded our afternoon program, catching Uber back to our hotel.

Day 2: Amman – Jerash – Dead Sea

Jerash

Our journey started with the convenient delivery of our rental car by Monte Carlo Car Rental to our hotel.
Our first destination was Jerash, situated approximately 52 kilometers away from Amman, a drive that took us around 55 minutes. Upon arrival, we parked at the Jerash Visitor Free parking area, right in front of the landmark entrance. Making use of our Jordan Pass, we entered the area to explore the ruins of the walled Greco-Roman settlement of Gerasa.

Walking around Jerash, we looked at:

Hadrian’s Arch

It was built in 129 AD and was erected to honor and celebrate the visit of the Emperor Hadrian.

Hippodrome:

It dates back to the Roman period, reflecting the city’s historical significance during the Roman Empire. The hippodrome in ancient times was a large stadium or arena primarily used for chariot races and other public spectacles.

The Cardo Maximus

It was likely constructed in the 1st century AD and expanded during the 2nd century AD. The columns are topped with Corinthian capitals, adding to the grandeur of the street. The street itself is paved with large stones, and the remnants of a drainage system can still be seen.

Hadrians Arch, Jerash, Jordan — The Hadrian’s Arch

The Hippodrom, Jerash, Jordan — The Hadrian’s Arch

South Theather

A classic Roman-style theater with a semi-circular orchestra and a tiered seating area. It can accommodate a large number of spectators. The theater is known for its impressive acoustics, allowing performances to be heard by the entire audience.

Nymphaeum

The Nymphaeum, finished in 191 AD, is a substantial fountain situated on the Cardo. Its primary function was to enhance the numerous small public fountains already present along the Cardo by serving as a central water source.

Artemis Temple

The temple is dedicated to Artemis, who was a significant deity in ancient Greek and Roman mythology. Artemis was often associated with the hunt, wilderness, and nature.

South Theather, Jerash, Jordan — South Theather

The North Gate is an impressive structure featuring a monumental entrance arch, columns, and other architectural elements characteristic of Roman city gates. Such gates served as both functional entrances and symbolic markers of the city.

Dead Sea

After touring the ruins of Jerash, we set off for our drive to the Dead Sea, covering approximately 95 kilometers in about 1.5 hours. Our accommodation was booked in one of the apartments at Samarah Dead Sea Resort. We proceeded through the resort’s front gate, where our host awaited us and guided us to the private parking lot.
After stopping at Samarah Mall for lunch, we later checked into our accommodation. We spent the afternoon floating in the Dead Sea, applying to rejuvenate Dead Sea mud as well as enjoying the resort swimming pools.

Dead Sea, Jordan — Samarah Dead Sea resort

Day 3: Dead Sea – Kerak Castle – Wadi Musa

The following day, we resumed our journey, sticking to the route along the Dead Sea and making our way to Wadi Mujib. We were eager to explore one of their adventure trails, but unfortunately, we discovered that the trails were restricted to adults aged 18 and above, and we had our teenage daughters with us. While this was fairly disappointing, I quickly came up with an alternative plan: a visit to Kerak Castle.

The drive from Samarah Dead Sea Resort to Kerak took approximately 1.5 hours. The journey was pretty interesting as the city sits at an elevation of about 1000 meters above sea level, while Samarah Dead Sea Resort is situated at -390 meters below sea level.

We parked our car in the Kerak Castle car park, which isn’t the official parking area you might expect at the castle entrance. It’s a private space where parking comes at a cost unless you opt to dine at the owner’s restaurant. Given the owner’s hospitality, we chose to visit the restaurant and enjoy the local meal after the castle visit.

Kerak Castle

We accessed the castle by showing our Jordan Pass.

The castle sits on a hilltop, providing great views of the surrounding area.
Originating in the 12th century, the castle underwent continuous expansion and fortification by various rulers, such as the Crusaders and the Mamluks. Its strategic positioning along the historic trade routes connecting Egypt and Syria played a pivotal role in the medieval conflicts between Crusaders and Muslims in the region.

Ruins of Kerak Castle in Jordan — Kerak Castle

View of Kerak Castle ruins — Kerak Castle

Wadi Musa

Following lunch, we started our drive to Wadi Musa, the town next to the ancient city of Petra. Our route from Kerak led us to the Desert Highway (Highway 15), the primary thoroughfare linking the north and south of Jordan. The drive covered approximately 180 kilometers and took around 2.5 hours.

There are many places to stay in Wadi Musa, from expensive hotels right next to the entrance of Petra to different private apartments scattered around the town. We booked our accomodation with Stay Classy Apartments. The parking was available right in front of the house and the Petra visitors parking was about 5min drive.

Day 4: Ancient City of Petra

Petra is the ancient Nabataean caravan city, situated between the Red Sea and the Dead Sea. It was an important crossroads between Arabia, Egypt, and Syria-Phoenicia. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985. Petra is sometimes called the ‘Lost City’, as it was completely lost to the Western world until the Swiss traveler, Johann Ludwig Burckhardt rediscovered it in 1812.

To avoid crowds and the heat, it’s good to arrive in Petra early in the morning.

We parked our car at the free parking area located in front of the visitor center.

As you enter the area, you’ll see the ticket office. Even if you have your Jordan Pass, it’s necessary to proceed there. Upon presenting the pass, they will issue tickets for entry into Petra town. Since we were unaware of this process, we had to backtrack from the entry point.

What did we explore in Petra:

After entering Petra, we walked on a dirt road toward the main city. On the way, we passed by the first of many beautiful sights, The Obelisk Tomb, the burial place the Nabateans built around 40-70AD, and Bab as-Siq Triclinium. The triclinium is a dining room with three benches on which the guests reclined while feasting.

The Siq

After a short walk, we arrived at the Siq, a breathtaking gorge marking the main entrance to Petra. Local vendors near the entrance provided services such as horse rides, but we opted not to take advantage of these offers and continued into the gorge. I must admit, the experience was truly breathtaking. The towering walls of the Siq shielded us from the sun, providing a cool environment not just in the morning but also as we exited in the early afternoon when concluding our visit to Petra.

The Treasury

At the end of The Siq Gorge is the iconic place that comes to mind when you mention Petra: The Treasury. The images of this site are widely recognized, and for good reason—it’s truly amazing.

The Treasury, known as Al-Khazneh in Arabic, is a rock-cut tomb constructed as a mausoleum and crypt at the start of the 1st century AD. According to local legend, there is a suggestion that “ancient pharaonic treasures” were concealed in the urn positioned right at the top of the tomb.

The Streets of Facades

It serve as the primary thoroughfare extending from the Treasury into the ancient city. Along this route, numerous tombs and remnants of ancient Nabatean houses can be found. We were amused by the entrepreneurial spirit of the local Bedouins with one particular highlight – the Starbucks cave,
To manage expectations—don’t anticipate a traditional Starbucks cappuccino experience here. They only offers coffee from the Starbucks coffee pods 😀.

Petra, the Street of Facades — The Streed of Facades

Starbucks cave in ancient city of Petra — The Streed of Facades

The Theater

It was constructed in the first century AD. A big part of the theater was carved out of solid rock. The theater’s auditorium consists of three horizontal sections of seats separated by passageways and seven stairways to ascend. The theater could accommodate approximately 8500 people

The Royal Tombs
Opposite the Theather is the cliff where the Royal Toms were carved into. Reaching the Royal Toms takes a bit of climbing but it is definitely worth it. The tombs served as the final resting places for Nabataean kings over 2,300 years ago.
Exploring the interiors of these tombs offers a unique experience, allowing one to feel the vibe of those places.

The Palace Tomb, ancient city of Petra — Urn Tomb

While there’s plenty more to explore in Petra, I must confess that after approximately six hours under the sun in this stunning ancient city, we gave it a rain check and started returning back to the parking place while cooling down in the Siq gorge on the way.

Day 5: Wadi Rum

The drive from Wadi Musa to Wadi Rum, the famous desert in Jordan, takes about 2 hours. While planning our itinerary, I contemplated spending two nights in the desert. Eventually, I decided to reduce it to just one night, a choice I believe was correct.

Based on our experience, I would recommend the ideal way to visit Wadi Rum is to arrive after lunch and take the afternoon 4-hour drive. Our drive commenced at 3 pm, and judging by the presence of people and cars from other camps, it seems that they all start around that time. We arrived a bit early to Wadi Rum, settled in the camp, but, honestly, there isn’t much to do except wait for the drive.
We stayed at Wadi Rum Bedouin Camp. However, with numerous camps scattered throughout the desert, there’s a wide variety to cater to individual preferences.

It is not permitted to drive in the Wadi Rum desert independently. The individual from the Wadi Rum Bedouin camp coordinated to meet us in the village. Before reaching the village, we had to go through the Wadi Rum visitor center, situated near the village on the main road. At the gate, we were halted and directed to their visitor office to showcase our Jordan passes.
Upon meeting our local guide in Wadi Rum, he drove us in a 4×4 truck to the camp, leaving our car securely parked on their premises.

Wadi Rum Beduin camp, Jordan road trip — Wadi Rum Beduin Camp

View from the Wadi Rum Beduin camp — Wadi Rum Beduin Camp

Our afternoon drive through the desert was incredible. It blended the thrill of driving with on-foot exploration, finished by watching sunset while drinking a cup of Bedouin tea.

Day 6: Aqaba – Tala Bay Aqaba

We explored numerous cultural and natural landmarks during the earlier days of our journey, so on day 6, it was time to head to Aqaba for some beach relaxation.

Departing from Wadi Rum in the morning after enjoying breakfast at the camp, the drive to Aqaba via the Desert Highway took approximately 1 hour.
Upon arrival in Aqaba, we left the car at the Free City Center parking near the beachfront. We wanted to explore Aqaba before heading to our final destination, Tala Bay Resort.

Walking along the Al-Ghandour Beach promenade, we made our way to Aqaba Castle. This Mamluk and Ottoman fortified caravanserai, situated on the pilgrimage route to Mecca and Medina, has preserved its current form primarily from the 16th century.

After exploring Aqaba, we drove to Tala Bay Resort, our final destination on this road trip to Jordan.

Al -Ghandour Beach in Aqaba — Al-Ghandour Beach

Days 7-8: Tala Bay Resort

Why did I choose the Tala Bay Resort over the stay in Aqaba?

Tala Bay, located about 20km from Aqaba, offers a comprehensive resort experience with beaches, restaurants, swimming pools, and shops. After we explored Aqaba, I was pleased with our decision to stay at Tala Bay. Unlike Aqaba, where public beaches are used by locals and might not be suitable for standard beach activities, Tala Bay provides a more resort-like atmosphere.
During our accommodation research in Aqaba, we noticed that many hotels offer transfers to the Berenice Beach Club, a paid private club located approximately 10km from Aqaba in the direction of Tala Bay.

We rented an apartment with one of the many swimming pools just steps away, while the beach was conveniently down the road. It was a delight to soak in the sun before returning to the onset of the European winter.

Swimming pool in Tala Bay resort, Jordan — Pool, Tala Bay resort

Evening on the beach in Tala Bay — Pool, Tala Bay resort

Day 9: Amman – traveling home from our road trip to Jordan

Our final day was a travel day. Covering approximately 320 km on the Desert Highway, the journey back to Amman took around 4 hours. We returned our rental car to the Monte Carlo Car Rental office, conveniently situated just a 5-minute drive from the Airport Departure terminal. After completing the paperwork, we were transported to the airport (no need to wait for a shuttle bus).

Another fantastic trip. And I have already planned a trip to our next destination.

Home

Table of Contents

Few words about South Africa

Few words about Namibia

Our trip

Upington

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa 🇿🇦

Twee Rivieren

Mata Mata

Game drives

Border Crossing: from South Africa to Namibia

Lake Oanob Resort – Namibia 🇳🇦

Etosha National park, Namibia 🇳🇦

Okaukuejo rest camp

Day trip to Olifantsrus Camp

Halali Rest Camp

Namutoni Rest Camp

Driving back from our safari road trip in Africa

Table of Contents

Practical Insights:

Map of places to explore

Tsitsikamma National Park

Jeffreys Bay

Addo Elephant National Park

Adrenaline Addo

The Bedrogfontein 4×4 Trail.

Mountain Zebra National Park

Hogsback

Kob Inn in Transkei

Morgan Bay

Port Alfred

Adventure Road trip in South Africa – last stretch

Table of Contents

Practical Insights:

Day 1: Tel Aviv – Jaffa

Day 2: Tel Aviv – Akko – Haifa

Day 3: Haifa

Day 4: Nazareth – Gan HaShlosha National Park – Jerusalem

Nazareth

Gan HaShlosha National Park

Day 5-6: Exploring Old Jerusalem

Day 7: Jerusalem – Masada Fortress – Dead Sea – Jerusalem

Masada

Ein Bokek, Dead Sea

Day 8: Jerusalem – Tel Aviv – return to Prague from our road trip to Israel

Table of Contents

Practical insights for the road trip to Jordan

Day 1: Discovering Amman

Day 2: Amman – Jerash – Dead Sea

Jerash

Dead Sea

Day 3: Dead Sea – Kerak Castle – Wadi Musa

Kerak Castle

Wadi Musa

Day 4: Ancient City of Petra

Day 5: Wadi Rum

Day 6: Aqaba – Tala Bay Aqaba

Days 7-8: Tala Bay Resort

Day 9: Amman – traveling home from our road trip to Jordan