Uncategorized - My Road trips

Perfect Week in Hong Kong: My 7-Day Itinerary

Iva Bowker on March 30, 2025

February is the time when I’ve had enough of winter and start searching for a destination to escape to. Since I haven’t explored much of Asia yet, perfect week in Hong Kong sounded just right.

The flight from Prague to Hong Kong was timed perfectly. I left in the evening and arrived in the evening too, thanks to the 7-hour time difference. After 16 hours of travel, I checked into the hotel and crashed—waking up fresh the next morning. It turned out to be a great way to beat jet lag.

Practical facts

Arrival

Arrival at Hong Kong International Airport was seamless. The airport is super modern with excellent signage—everything clearly marked in English (which is true for most of Hong Kong!). After immigration, I took the Airport Express to Central. It takes about 25 minutes and connects to the main transport hub with several metro lines. From Central, we transferred to the blue Island Line and reached our hotel in just two stops.

Accommodation

I chose The Wharney Hotel, located just steps from the Wan Chai metro station on the Island (blue) line. I initially considered staying in Kowloon, but I’m glad I changed my mind. For exploring all of Hong Kong, staying on Hong Kong Island is a smarter option thanks to better access to metro lines and ferries.

Transport / Octopus Card

Hong Kong has a fantastic MTR metro system that took me almost everywhere I wanted to go. During my research, I came across the Octopus card, which is used for public transport and even for payments in some restaurants.

At first, I thought I’d have to buy one and keep reloading it—which I’m not a fan of, since I never know how much money I’ll need. I usually prefer paying with my regular payment card.

But here’s the truth: I didn’t need the Octopus card at all.

I used my VISA card to pay for metro rides. One key thing: each person needs a separate card to pass through the gates. But I found a workaround. I use Apple Pay, and I have the same card added in three versions—physical card, iPhone wallet, and Apple Watch. Since we were three people, we used the physical card for one person, iPhone wallet for another, and Apple Watch for me—all with the same VISA card. It worked perfectly!
Most shops and restaurants accept VISA and Mastercard, but it’s good to check ahead. Some smaller places only accept cash or Octopus.
As a backup, I withdrew some cash just in case.
Buses do not require an Octopus card, but you’ll need exact change. That said, I end up using the bus in one occasion only.

So to summarize: the Octopus card is a great option if you prefer it or are staying longer, but it’s not essential. You can easily get around without it.

Internet

I always use the Airalo app to buy an eSIM for data. When I landed in Hong Kong, I simply activated it and was instantly connected. That said, there are plenty of public Wi-Fi spots around the city too.

Public Toilets

Public toilets are everywhere—in metro stations, shopping malls, and around the city. And the best part? They’re completely free. No need to carry spare change like in many other countries.

Day 1: Free Walking Tour & Exploring Hong Kong Island

On our first morning in Hong Kong, I booked us a Free Walking Tour. The concept is simple: it’s tip-based—you pay what you feel the tour was worth at the end. These tours are a fantastic way to get introduced to a city and learn from locals.

We really enjoyed the one we did, organized by Hong Kong Free Tours. In fact, we loved it so much that we decided to book another one later in the week: “The Dark Side of Hong Kong.”

The tour started at Central MTR Station, where we learned about significant landmarks like the HSBC Building, Bank of China Tower, and got insights into Hong Kong’s history and present-day dynamics. From there, we made our way to St. John’s Cathedral and then hopped on the Central–Mid-Levels Escalator, the longest outdoor covered escalator system in the world. Continued the tour with discussions about local food culture—from dim sum to street eats. Ended the tour at the Man Mo Temple—one of the oldest temples in the city.

Hong Kong Central, Perfect week in Hong Kong — Hong Kong Central

St. John Catedral in Hong Kong — Hong Kong Central

After the two-hour tour, we grabbed a quick lunch and headed to the Peak Tram for a ride up to Victoria Peak. Since it was a Saturday, it was quite crowded, and we ended up waiting in line for a while.

Once at the top, we found ourselves “lost” in what I can only describe as a tourist trap—a confusing complex filled with restaurants, entertainment areas, and no clear exit signs. We kept riding one escalator after another until we reached a point where they asked for another steep fee to access the main viewpoint. We decided not to pay and instead found our way out of complex.

Bottom line: unless you’re really into tourist attractions, don’t waste too much time in the complex—try to find the exit.

Since it was already late afternoon, we decided to skip the Peak Circle Walk and save it for another day. Instead, we took a scenic walk downhill via the Mid-Levels—a beautiful and upscale residential area. The walk was relaxing, and it took us about 20 minutes to reach the lower Peak Tram Station.

From there, we continued through the Hong Kong Zoological and Botanical Gardens—which, to our surprise, was free to enter—and then wandered into Hong Kong Park, a lush, peaceful escape right in the middle of the bustling city. It was the perfect way to wrap up our first full day in Hong Kong.

Tram to Victoria Peak in Hong Kong — Victoria Peak Tram

Mid-level skyscrapers — Victoria Peak Tram

Day 2: Kowloon

There are two main ways to get from Hong Kong Island to Kowloon:

Star Ferry
MTR (Metro) – take the red line from Central to Tsim Sha Tsui, which is the first stop closest to the Star Ferry terminal on the Kowloon side.

We chose to take the Star Ferry so we could enjoy the beautiful views from the water. The ferry ride takes about 10 minutes and departs from the Star Ferry Terminal located close to the Hong Kong Central metro station.

I paid HKD 5 for the ferry using my VISA card—though of course, you can also use the Octopus card.

The Kowloon-side terminal drops you right at the beginning of the Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade and the Avenue of Stars—a lovely area to stroll around and take in the stunning views of the Hong Kong skyline across the harbour.

HK Film Awards Statue, Avenue of stars — HK Film Awards Statue

Bruce Lee statue and I, Avenue of Stars — HK Film Awards Statue

After enjoying the atmosphere and connecting with some local celebrity tributes at the Avenue of Stars, we made our way toward Nathan Road—Kowloon’s main street filled with shops, restaurants, and local life. Just wondered up, walked throught the Kowloon Park and many side streets. Eventually we decided to turn around and head back to Hong Kong Island.

Day 3: Macau – “The Las Vegas of Asia”

Macau is a fascinating blend of old Portuguese heritage and modern luxury, with beautifully preserved colonial buildings in the city center and, off course, casinos earning it the nickname “The Las Vegas of Asia.”

Macau makes for a great day trip from Hong Kong. The Macau Ferry Terminal is located behind Exchange Square, where you can also see the buildings of the Hong Kong Stock Exchange.

Several companies operate ferries to Macau—I chose the high-speed ferry with TurboJet. Ferries run every 30 minutes, and I bought my tickets directly at the TurboJet ticketing office.

Since Macau is a separate territory, we had to go through passport control on both sides—departing Hong Kong and again upon arrival in Macau.

It’s worth noting:

Macau has its own currency
I also purchased a separate Airalo eSIM for data in Macau

Once we stepped off the boat, we began walking toward the city center, passing by many luxurious casino buildings. It took us about 30 minutes to reach the historic area—and it truly felt like stepping into a different world.

The old Portuguese-style buildings are filled with local shops and eventually lead to the main tourist sights. One highlight is the Ruins of St. Paul’s—a dramatic and iconic church facade. From there, we continued uphill to the Fortaleza do Monte, an old fortress that once protected Macau from sea attacks. In the center of the fortress is the Macau Museum (we didn’t visit, but it’s good to know it’s there).

Street in the "old" part of Macau, close to the ruins of St. Pauls church — Street heading to St.Pauls

Ruins of St. Paul church in Macau — Street heading to St.Pauls

After enjoying the panoramic views from the top, we made our way back down for a late lunch and then spent the rest of the afternoon wandering the streets before slowly heading back to the ferry terminal for our return trip.

Day 4: Ocean Park

Ocean Park is definitely a place not to miss! I originally expected to spend just half a day there—but we ended up staying nearly the entire day.

We visited midweek and arrived right at opening time (10 AM), which I can only recommend as there are obviously less people.

The biggest highlight for me was seeing the pandas! I was lucky to catch one sitting and munching on bamboo right in front of me—it was so adorable. We also visited the baby pandas in the next pavilion, but the area was more crowded, so the experience wasn’t as special as with the adult panda.

Aside from the pandas, Ocean Park has so much to offer:

A huge Aquarium
The Jellyfish Pavilion
A walkthrough Tropical forest
Ocean-themed rides, nature trails, and fun for all ages

It’s both an amusement park and a nature park in one—a really unique experience that made for a full and exciting day.

Day 5: Lantau Island Adventure

Lantau Island is twice the size of Hong Kong Island, but much of it is protected country park, with hiking trails and natural landscapes. We actually landed in Lantau, as that’s where Hong Kong International Airport is located.

Although Disneyland Hong Kong is also on Lantau, we gave it a miss. We nevertheless wanted to visit the cultural and spiritual highlights of the island—Po Lin Monastery and the statue of the Big Buddha.

Ngong Ping 360 Cable Car

We took the MTR (metro) from Hong Kong Island to Tung Chung Station, then headed to the Ngong Ping 360 Cable Car.

⚠️ Travel Tip: Arrive early or buy tickets online.
We got there at around 9:30 AM and still had to wait 1.5 hours to board. I’ll be honest—I had moments when I almost gave up on this experience.

But I’m glad we didn’t. The cable car ride lasts about 20 minutes and offers stunning views of Lantau’s mountains, the sea, and the Big Buddha in the distance.

Big Buddha (Tian Tan Buddha)

Once we arrived at Ngong Ping Village, we passed through a few touristy shops and headed straight to the Big Buddha.

View from the Ngong Ping 360 Cable car — Ngong Ping 360 Cable Car

Ngong Ping village, Lantau — Ngong Ping 360 Cable Car

Completed in 1993, the bronze statue stands 34 meters tall and weighs over 250 tons. A long staircase leads up to the statue, and the views from the top are truly worth the climb.

Po Lin Monastery

After descending from the Buddha, we explored the nearby Po Lin Monastery. It’s a peaceful and spiritual place with beautiful architecture. There were a few exhibitions about Buddhism and the monastery’s history, which gave a deeper insight into the local culture.

Tai O Fishing Village

From the village, we grabbed a quick snack lunch and caught Bus No. 21 to Tai O, the largest and oldest traditional fishing village in Lantau.

Here, you can take boat rides to try to spot the famous pink dolphins, though we didn’t have time for that. To be honest, apart from that, I didn’t find Tai O particularly special. We walked around for a while, but after about an hour, we caught Bus No. 11 back to Tung Chung.

Just to mention, just few steps away from the Tung Chung metro stop is a large Outlet shopping mall with all the well known brands.

Evening: Symphony of Lights – Kowloon

After returning to Tung Chung, we took the MTR to Kowloon just in time for the evening. We found a restaurant, enjoyed a relaxed early dinner, and headed to the Waterfront Promenade for the Symphony of Lights—the skyline lit up with coordinated lights and music.

Syphony of Lights - view of HK Island from Kowloon

Day 6: Monster Building, Causeway Bay & The Peak Circular Walk

We originally planned to start the day with a return trip to Victoria Peak to do the Peak Circle Walk and enjoy the panoramic views of Hong Kong. However, the weather didn’t cooperate—it was rainy, and low clouds were sitting right on top of the Peak. So, we decided to adjust our plans.

Monster Building (Quarry Bay)

As someone who takes a lot of travel inspiration from Instagram, I had seen photos of the so called “Monster Building”—a real-life example of dense urban living in Hong Kong. That became our new morning destination.

We took the Island Line to Tai Koo Station, then followed Google Maps toward the location. However, despite arriving at the marked spot, we couldn’t find it right away. We eventually had to ask someone for directions.

🧭 Tip: To find the Monster Building, you need to walk through a passage off the main street—then the courtyard, made famous by Instagram, suddenly opens up before you.

Causeway Bay

After having look at the Monster Building, we returned to the Island Line and headed to Causeway Bay, a vibrant district known for its shopping and urban buzz.

We spent time wondering around the shopping streets and malls as well as enjoyed the walk along the Causeway Bay Promenade.

Monster Building, Hong Kong — Monster Building

Causeway Bay, Hong Kong — Monster Building

The Peak Circular Walk

Luckily, the sky cleared up after lunch, so we headed back to the Peak Tram—and this time, we could finally complete the Peak Circle Walk.

The walk takes about an hour and it took us along the hillside, offering beautiful views of Hong Kong’s skyline, Victoria Harbour, and the surrounding mountains.

Day 7: “The Dark Side of Hong Kong” Tour & Farewell Walk

As I mentioned at the beginning of this post, we booked a second tour with Hong Kong Free Tours called “The Dark Side of Hong Kong”.

This 2-hour walking tour took us through areas of Kowloon we would have otherwise missed. But more importantly, it offered an eye-opening perspective. It showed us that Hong Kong isn’t just the “shiny” city filled with tourist attractions, luxury malls, skyscrapers, restaurants, and fancy hotels.

Instead, we were introduced to the reality many residents face—people living in incredibly small spaces, sometimes as little as 10m², or worse, in tiny subdivided “cage homes.” The tour also explained the economic issues behind the city’s extremely high property prices and lack of affordable housing.

I have to say, this was one of the most impactful and insightful tours I’ve ever done.

Hong Kong, Sub-devided unit — Sub-devided unit

Sub-devided unit, Hong Kong — Sub-devided unit

After the tour, we found a local restaurant for a late lunch, took some time to unwind, and then went for one last walk along the Waterfront promenade.

As evening approached, it was time to head to the airport and say goodbye to Hong Kong.

View over the Victoria Harbour, perfect week in Hong Kong — Victoria Harbour

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Wildlife Expedition: Safari Road Trip in Africa 🇿🇦🇳🇦

Iva Bowker on December 26, 2023

While living in South Africa during the COVID-19 pandemic, we took a safari road trip to Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in South Africa and Etosha Pan in Namibia. Join me on the journey to explore the fascinating wildlife.

Few words about South Africa

South Africa is easily accessible with major airlines operating international flights to these cities. A crucial travel tip is to always collect luggage upon arrival in Johannesburg or Cape Town, even for connecting flights within the country.

Mobile data: For mobile data, I recommend using the Airalo app, which allows you to download a data e-SIM card for countries worldwide. It’s easy and hassle-free. I activate the data e-SIM in my phone settings upon arrival and I have instant access to the internet.

The official currency is the South African Rand, and ATMs are widely available. While cards are accepted, carrying some cash is beneficial. Petrol stations are found in all cities, with attendants offering services without the need for you to leave your car.

In South Africa, they drive on the left-hand side of the road, similar to the UK. The main roads between cities are generally in good condition, although it’s advisable to watch for potholes. Once you get off the main road, expect to drive on dirt or gravel roads.

Load shedding, or power outages, is common in South Africa due to power generation challenges. The ESP app provides real-time information on scheduled outages, but many establishments operate independently using generators or solar panels.

Crime is a reality, and blending in, avoiding visible displays of wealth, and taking precautions such as not engaging with strangers are advised. When driving, keeping belongings secure and refraining from stopping in rural areas contribute to a safer and more enjoyable experience in the country.

Few words about Namibia

The population of Namibia is approximately 2.8 million. The capital city is Windhoek, where major airlines operate flights. English is the official language, though most people speak Oshiwambo as their mother tongue. Afrikaans and German are also well understood.

The official currency is the Namibian Dollar. Similar to South Africa, ATMs are widely available, and cards are accepted. Petrol stations, available in all cities, provide services with attendants without requiring you to leave your car. As in South Africa, they drive on the left- hand side of the road.

Namibia is generally considered a safe country, but awareness, especially in large cities, is advisable.

Our trip

We started our safari road trip in Africa from our base in Port Alfred. The initial drive we undertook was to Upington, covering a distance of 926km, which occupied the entirety of our day.
The good news is that anyone interested in following our journey can fly directly to Upington Airport. Flights are available with airlines such as South African FlyAirlink.

Upington

Upington is a city founded in 1873 and situated in the Northern Cape province of South Africa, along the banks of the Orange River.
Nortern Cape is South Africa’s largest province, covering nearly a third of the country’s territory. Despite its size, it has the smallest population among all the provinces.

We chose the accommodation just outside Upington at Oranje Rus Resort.

Entrance to Orange Rus resort, South Africa — Resort Entrance

Orange Rus Resort close to Upington in South Africa — Resort Entrance

Upington – Twee Rivieren, Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park: 279km, 3hours

On the next day, we woke up early to reach our destination: the entrance to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park entrance sign — Entrance sign

Park Entrance building, Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park — Entrance sign

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa 🇿🇦

Map of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier park — Park map

Stretching across the territories of both Botswana and South Africa, the park covers an extensive 37,000 square kilometers. In 1999, a treaty was signed between South Africa and Botswana to establish this conservation area. Officially opened in May 2002, the park is managed as one entity, although tourist facilities continue to operate independently.

The park is a malaria free area.

Travelers benefit from immigration and customs arrangements that allow them to enter the park in one country and depart from the other. The primary entry and departure point between the two nations is the Two Rivers/Twee Rivieren Gate, equipped with camping facilities, chalets, shops, and a restaurant.

Empty house in KTP, South Africa — House in the desert

The accommodation within the park is managed by SANParks. Various camps are available for exploration, and details can be found on the SANParks website. We stayed in two camps: Twee Rivieren and Mata Mata.

Twee Rivieren

Twee Rivieren Camp is the largest rest camp in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. It provides many facilities, including camping grounds, chalets, a swimming pool, shops, a petrol station, and a restaurant. The camp is on the border post between South Africa and Botswana.

Chalet in Twee Rivieren Rest Camp, South Africa — Twee Rivieren Rest Camp

Mata Mata

Mata Mata is located along the Auob River and near the border between Namibia and South Africa. The camp provides a range of facilities, including camping sites, self-catering chalets, a swimming pool, shop or fuel station.

Cottage in Mata Mata Rest Camp — Mata Mata entrance

Game drives

Most of the park has gravel roads, so it’s better to drive a 4×4. To see more animals, it’s best to go on drives early in the morning and late in the afternoon when the animals are most active. Every drive is different, and you never know what you might come across.

Here are some cool animals we saw:

Honeybadger

They are known for their fearless and aggressive behavior, earning them a reputation as one of the most fearless animals in the animal kingdom. They are skilled hunters and scavengers, preying on a variety of small mammals, reptiles, birds, insects, fruits, and honey.

Honey Badger

African Wild Cat

It is in appearance similar to domestic catsThey are skilled hunters, preying on small mammals, birds, and insects. They are solitary and mostly nocturnal, avoiding larger predators.

Lion

The park is known for its black-maned Kalahari lions, which are well adapted to the arid conditions of the desert. These majestic predators roam the park and are often seen resting under acacia trees or hunting for prey.

Jackal

Jackals are opportunistic omnivores, feeding on small mammals, birds, insects, fruits, and carrion. They are known for their distinctive vocalizations, including howls and yips.

African Wild cat seen in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa — African Wild Cat

Border Crossing: from South Africa to Namibia

After few days spent in KTP in South Africa we continued our safari trip to Namibia.

Crossing the border between South Africa and Namibia served as a reminder of the convenience of our EU Schengen Zone. Initially, on the South African side, we parked the car and underwent various procedures. The individual “stations,” marked with numbers, required us to go through each one: a check of car documents, passport inspection, and customs verification. Once completed, we drove a few meters to the Namibian side and repeated the process. The entire procedure took a good hour, even during the low-travel period of Covid, when there were minimal people at the border.

Border between SA and Namibia — Boarder between SA and Namibia

SA to Namibia border post — Boarder between SA and Namibia

Lake Oanob Resort – Namibia 🇳🇦

Mata Mata – Lake Oanob Namibia: 482km, 5,5hours

Our next stop during our safari road trip was Lake Oanob Resort, surrounded by mountains and hills. The resort offers spacious chalets overlooking the dam, along with activities such as hiking, boat rides, canoeing, or aqua-cycling. Taking a break from the drive, we explored the area around the lake and enjoyed some water activities.

Lake Oanob Resort reception area — Lake Oanob Resort

Chalet at Lake Oanob Resort — Lake Oanob Resort

View of the Lake Oanob. Safari road trip in Africa — View of the Lake

Etosha National park, Namibia 🇳🇦

Lake Oanob Resort – Etosha: 515km, 5,5hours

Etosha National Park is known for its expansive salt pan visible even from space. Despite this wildlife gathers around the waterholes, ensuring almost certain game sightings.

View of Etosha pan, Namibia — Etosha pan

The optimal way to experience the park is by staying in the on-site accommodations. These camps, managed by Namibia Wildlife Resorts, demand careful planning and booking well in advance, often a year or more. During the quieter period of the Covid times, we were fortunate to be among the few guests, providing a high level of flexibility.

Road towards Etosha National Park, Namibia — Road towards Etosha

Etosha Entrance Gate, Namibia — Road towards Etosha

Okaukuejo rest camp

Upon arriving at the entry gate to Etosha Park, our vehicle and accommodation booking were checked. Once inside, we proceeded to our initial camp, Okaukuejo. This camp is the largest and is well-known for its amazing waterhole where animals gather during both day and night.

Okaukuejo reception area, Etosha — Okaukuejo reception area

Cottage in Okaukuejo camp — Okaukuejo reception area

The self-driving experience in a nearly empty park was an adventure in itself. The wildlife in Etosha is truly amazing. Here are some highlights of the animals we saw around Okaukuejo.

Black Rhino

Namibia currently hosts the world’s largest population of black rhinos, predominantly present in Etosha National Park. Sightings around the park and waterholes are frequent during the dry season, typically from May to October. Despite the great conservation job done in Namibia, many conservationists worry that the rhino poaching common in South Africa may eventually extend across the border. I really hope that this proves to be wrong and that we will be able to continue admiring those beautiful animals.

Lion

Lions are common in the park and we spotted them on several occasions.

Female Lion laying in the grass in Etosha, Namibia — Lions

Jackel

Jackals are slender and swift creatures that typically live in pairs. These pairs engage in various activities together, such as eating and sleeping. They exhibit strong territorial instincts and collaborate to defend their territory. Additionally, jackals hunt together as a coordinated team.

Jackal on the road in Etosha National park — Jackal on the road

Close up of jackal in Etosha — Jackal on the road

Hyena

Etosha has got the largest population of Hyena in Namibia. Hyenas are carnivorous mammals known for their powerful build, scavenging habits, and distinctive laughs.

Day trip to Olifantsrus Camp

While exploring the park, we made a day trip to Olifantsrus Camp. As Etosha’s newest camp, Olifantsrus is the first accommodation option in the park exclusively designed for camping, providing an opportunity to feel a little closer to the incredible African bush.

Olifantsrus Camp in Etosha — Olifantsrus Camp

Nature walk way in Olifantsrus Camp — Olifantsrus Camp

Halali Rest Camp

The next camp we stayed in was Halali, located approximately between Okaukuejo and Namutoni, our final destination. Halali provides self-catering cottages and a campsite. Although the camp has a swimming pool, it was unfortunately not operational during our stay. A short walk from the campsite leads to the floodlit waterhole, offering game viewing opportunities during both the day and night.

Halali self-catering cottage in Etosha — Entrance to Halali Rest Camp

We continued exploring the wildlife.

Giraffe

Giraffes are beautiful animals. They spend most of the day munching on Acacia trees. When drinking from the waterholes, they are always super cautious as the drinking position makes them very vulnerable.

Giraffes around the waterhole in Etosha — Giraffes walking on the road

Elephants

Elephants are iconic. The largest land animals on Earth, are known for their intelligence, social behavior, and distinctive features, including their long trunks and tusks. They spend the day walking around and eating.

Walking Elephant in Etosha — Walking Elephant

Elephant drinking from the waterhole, Etosha — Walking Elephant

Namutoni Rest Camp

The last camp we stayed in was Namutoni. A premium setup with comfortable rooms, a restaurant, and a swimming pool. Originally established as a control post during the mad cow disease epidemic of 1897 in Namibia, Fort Namutoni was built by the Germans. It functioned as a police post and later as a South African army base. and later as a South African army base, the fort was declared a national monument in 1950 and opened to tourism in 1957.

Namutoni camp, Etosha — Namutoni fortress

Swimming pool in Namutoni, Etosha, Namibia — Namutoni fortress

Like all other locations in Etosha, Namutoni’s surroundings offer fantastic game viewing. The highlight of our stay was spotting a leopard near the camp. Leopards are notoriously difficult to spot, and we were hoping to see one throughout our entire stay in Etosha.

Leopard resting under the tree close to Namutoni in Etosha — Resting Leopard

Leopard close to Namutoni camp, Etosha, Namibia — Resting Leopard

Leopard yawning, Etosha, Namibia — Yawning Leopard

During one of our day trips, we ventured to Onkoshi Camp. Along the way, spotting animals, we reached this exclusive camp perched on wooden structures, away from the public self-drive routes. Onkoshi Camp is situated right on the border of the park’s characteristic salt pan, offering a premium experience away from the public self-drive routes. Operating mainly on solar power, Onkoshi is a low-impact camp.

Entrance to the Onkoshi Camp in Etosha National Park — Entrance to the Onkoshi

View of chalets in Onkoshi camp, Namibia — Entrance to the Onkoshi

Driving back from our safari road trip in Africa

The drive back was lengthy and unexpectedly led to a stop in a place I had never imagined staying. On the first day, we drove from Namutoni to Windhoek, covering 540km with an estimated travel time of 5.5 hours. However, the journey took much longer as we needed to get our COVID tests done on the way, hoping for negative results on time to cross the border back into South Africa.

The original plan for the second day was to drive from Windhoek to Upington in South Africa, covering about 1000km. As we approached the border, we still hadn’t received the Covid test results, so we had to make a plan and find a place to stay.
We stopped at a sign for Grunau Country Hotel, which seemed to be in the middle of nowhere, and I had some doubts. To our surprise, it turned out to be a wonderful spot! We enjoyed a lovely dinner and awesome wine—just perfect.

Grunau Counry Hotel in Namibia — Grunau Country Hotel

Courtyard, Grunau Country Hotel — Grunau Country Hotel

Eventually, we received our Covid test results in the evening and set off for our 1250km drive back home to our house in the Royal Alfred Marina.

Port Alfred Marina, view at the river, South Africa — Port Alfred Marina

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Unexplored Eastern Cape: Adventure Road Trip in South Africa 🇿🇦

Iva Bowker on December 19, 2023

In 1999, I landed in South Africa for the first time, unaware that it would eventually become my second home. Over the years, I’ve spent a significant amount of time in the country, and whenever I discuss it with others, Cape Town often takes center stage. When it gets to South Africa, many tourists follow the well-known path to Kruger Park or drive down the Garden Route from Port Elizabeth (now named Gqeberha) to Cape Town.
How about exploring something different? Let me introduce you to some of the most amazing places in the Eastern Cape and provide you with ideas for adventure road trip.

South Africa is a vast and multicultural country, covering approximately 1.2 million square kilometers. To put it into perspective, it’s about a third of the size of Europe excluding Russia. With a population of around 60 million, South Africa has 11 official languages, with Zulu (23%), Xhosa (16%), Afrikaans (14%), and English (10%) being the most spoken. English is the official institutional language. Notably, South Africa is the only country with three capital cities: Pretoria (administrative and executive), Cape Town (legislative), and Bloemfontein (judicial).

Practical Insights:

South Africa is a welcoming country with friendly people. Landing in Johannesburg or Cape Town feels like entering a different world, where even a restroom attendant greets you warmly.

Getting there: It is easy, with major airlines operating flights to international airports in Johannesburg and Cape Town.

One important note: Always collect your luggage upon arrival in Johannesburg or Cape Town, even if you have a connecting flight. In most cases, airlines will tag your bags to the final destination within the country. This can be confusing, so do not make the mistake of leaving the International terminal without your luggage. After collecting your bags, proceed to the Domestic terminal to check them in again if you have a connecting domestic flight.

The best way to explore the Eastern Cape is to fly to Gqeberha (Port Elizabeth). Domestic flights from Johannesburg and Cape Town are frequently operated by local airlines such as FlySafair or FlyAirlink.

Currency: The official currency is the South African Rand (1 USD = 18,5 Rand), and
ATMs are widely available. While cards are accepted everywhere, having a few Rands in cash can be beneficial.

Driving and Petrol stations: In South Africa, they drive on the left-hand side of the road, similar to the UK. The main roads between cities are generally in good condition, although it’s advisable to watch for potholes. Once you get off the main road, expect to drive on dirt or gravel roads.

Petrol stations can be found in all cities, but it is advisable to check the distances between cities due to the country’s vast size. Gas station attendants are available and offer services such as filling up your tank, cleaning your windows, and checking oil and windshield wiper fluid. You do not need to step out of your car for these services.

Load shedding (power outages): It is a common occurrence in the country due to a lack of power generation capacity, with nationwide rotational outages at various stages persisting for many years. The Eskom Load Shedding app is downloadable from the Apple App Store or Google Play. It provides information on when electricity will be switched off during the day in the city or area you are in. The stages of load shedding can vary and change rapidly, so it is advisable to keep app notifications on while in South Africa.

Despite load shedding, the majority of hotels, restaurants, shops, etc., continue to operate by using their own power generators or, more recently, solar panels. The solar business has experienced significant growth in South Africa.

Crime: Is a reality in South Africa, and it’s essential to be aware of it. Having spent the last 25 years in the country without encountering any issues, I can offer some important advice. Generally, try to blend in and look like a local rather than a tourist. Avoid wearing visibly expensive jewelry, and handbags, or carrying expensive cameras.

Refrain from engaging with strangers who may approach you asking for money. Never leave your belongings visible in the car, and always lock your doors when driving.

When driving through the countryside, resist the urge to stop and give sweets to children who may wave at you near the roads. It’s crucial not to wander outside after dark; a romantic walk on the beach in the moonlight is not advisable. Taking these precautions will contribute to a safer and more enjoyable experience in South Africa.

Map of places to explore

Places I have selected to explore are pointed on the map. Many of them are accessible only via a dirt road or require off-road travel with a 4×4 vehicle (e.g.Toyota Landcruiser). I am making a note with each place.

Tsitsikamma National Park

Gqeberha (Port Elizabeth) – Tsitsikamma National Park: 116km, 1hour 15min on N2 highway. Accesible without 4×4 vehicle

Situated on the border between Eastern and Western Cape, it is a haven for outdoor enthusiasts. It offers a range of activities, including hiking, kayaking, snorkeling, and bird watching, amidst indigenous forests teeming with ancient Yellowwood trees and diverse birdlife.

For the best experience, staying at the accommodation inside the park, managed by SAN Parks, is ideal. However, due to its popularity, booking well in advance, sometimes a year ahead, is necessary. Alternatively, accommodations in close proximity to the park allow for daily access to its activities.

Tsitsikamma view of the ocean — View of the ocean

Tsitsikama National Park — View of the ocean

Among the highlights at Tsitsikamma:

Walk on the Suspension Bridge: Offering breathtaking views of the coastal landscape and the Storms River, the suspension bridge spans the dramatic Storms River Mouth.

Kayaking up the Storms River: A guided kayaking tour through the captivating gorge is a must-do activity, marked as a definite highlight of my visit.

Zip Line: A fun activity suitable for everyone over 6 years old.

Storms River Gorge, Road trip in South Africa — Suspension bridge

Adventure Trail to the Waterfall: Although approximately 6km, the trail takes 3-4 hours to complete due to its adventurous nature. Conquering big rocks, it requires a certain level of fitness and is not recommended for those with health conditions.

Walk to the waterfall — Trail to the waterfall

Trail to the waterfall in Tsitsikamma, South Africa — Trail to the waterfall

Bungee Jumping: While I haven’t personally experienced this activity, the Bloukrans Bridge Bungy is one of the world’s highest commercial bungee jumping sites at 216 meters above the Bloukrans River, located on the N2 Highway in the Tsitsikamma area.

Jeffreys Bay

Tsitsikamma National Park – J-Bay: 48km, 32min on N2 highway. Accesible without 4×4 vehicle

Commonly referred to as “J-Bay,” it attracts surfers from around the globe to its famous Supertubes, known for hosting international surfing competitions.
It is one of my favorite places to hang around for a day or two, enjoying the beach, and watching the dolphins and whales. Of course, I admired the top surfers riding big waves, trying to do some surfing myself. And more, I love shopping in the big Surfer brand outlet stores.

When I am in J-Bay, I always park at the J-Bay village in front of the Billabong Outlet store. That is the original place where one can enjoy the surf culture at its best. There are shops, coffee shops, and surf schools. You can easily reach the beachfront and walk on the beautiful beach for miles.

Rainbow over the J-Bay village — Rainbow over J-Bay

J-Bay village motto — Rainbow over J-Bay

Addo Elephant National Park

Jeffreys Bay – Addo Elephant National Park: 115km, 1hour 15min. Accesible without 4×4 vehicle

Two elephants walking in Addo park, South Africa — Herd of Elephants

Herd of elephants

I can’t even remember how many times I’ve visited Addo Elephant National Park. Whether as a day trip, staying inside the park for a few nights, or choosing accommodations just outside, each visit has been unique.

Initially established to protect the last remaining Addo elephants, the park has evolved into a diverse conservation area, home to a variety of plant and animal species. It’s particularly renowned for its large elephant herds, lions, buffalo, rhinoceros, various antelope species, and even dung beetles.

The park has two main entrances, and after registration and fee payments, we receive a map, making it easy to drive around while adhering to park rules.

Bufallo in Addo Park in South Africa — Bufallo

Accommodation

Staying inside the park in the self-catering cottages run by SAN Parks is the ideal way to explore. While basic, the cottages provide everything needed for a comfortable stay. Due to its popularity, reservations need to be made months in advance.
Alternatively, accommodations outside the park are available. We stayed in the upmarket Africanos Country Estate and it was lovely.

Africanos Country Estate close to Addo — Africanos Country Estate

Africanos Country Estate in South Africa — Africanos Country Estate

Game drives

Driving in Addo Park is an adventure of its own. Spotting wildlife is unpredictable, and you never know what animals will appear. While elephants, warthogs, various antelopes, zebras, and dung beetles are almost guaranteed, there’s a good chance to spot jackals or buffalo. Spotting lions can be tricky, with some visits we were lucky and others not.

Adrenaline Addo

It is a fantastic destination for adventure lovers, offering a ride on the highest, longest, and fastest double zip line in South Africa. You can also try the giant swing or canoeing on the Sundays River. We tried all the activivities and spend an enjoyble time doing that.

Zip line in Adrenaline Addo adventure centre, South Africa — Zip line

Giant swing, Adrenaline Addo. Adventure road trip in South Africa — Zip line

The Bedrogfontein 4×4 Trail.

The Bedrogfontein 4x4 Trail entrance, South Africa

It is situated approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes from Addo Elephant National Park in the Baviaanskloof Nature Reserve. This 45km off-road adventure is a genuine 4×4 challenge, navigating through rugged terrain, river crossings, and steep ascents. The trail offers breathtaking views of the surrounding wilderness in a remote setting. It’s worth noting that once you get on the trail, you’re on your own, as there is minimal to no mobile phone coverage for the majority of the journey.

The Bedrogfontein 4x4 Trail — The Bedrogfontein 4×4 Trail

Mountain Zebra National Park

Addo Elephant National Park – Mountain Zebra National park: 210km, 2hours 45min via N10. Accesible without 4×4 vehicle.

It is a conservation area dedicated to the preservation of the Cape mountain zebra. The park offers a unique opportunity to observe these endangered zebras in their natural habitat. Beyond zebras, the park is home to a variety of wildlife, including buffalo, cheetahs, and various antelope species.

Entrance to Mountain Zebra National Park, South Africa — Entrance gate

View of a tree inside Mountain Zebra National Park, South Africa — Entrance gate

Accommodation

The accommodation inside the park is managed by SANParks, offering various types of lodging. We stayed in the family cottages and the remote Mountain Cottage.

Family Cottage in the Mountain Zebra National park, Eastern Cape — Family Cottage

Mountain Cottage in the Mountain Zebra National park, South Africa — Family Cottage

Cheetah tracking

It is a popular activity offered by experienced guides. We did it a couple of times and always enjoyed the thrill of tracking the cheetah. The excitement built as we were getting closer to these stunning animals.

Walking group tracking cheetah in South Africa — Cheetah Tracking

4×4 tracks

Mountain Zebra National Park offers three tracks within its boundaries for exploration. This off-road drive is an adventurous experience, allowing you to explore areas beyond the main roads of the park. This activity requires a 4×4 off-road vehicle to navigate the diverse and challenging terrain.

Exploring 4×4 track

Game drives:

The park’s main roads are easy to drive on and allow one to explore the park while spotting different types of animals.
There are also game drives with a professional guide organized by the park.

Hogsback

Mountain Zebra National Park – Hogsback: 210km, 3hours. Accesible without 4×4 vehicle.

Hogsback is an enchanting mountain village known for its forests, waterfalls, and beautiful landscapes.
Hogsback is often referred to as a place of magical beauty. The village offers hiking trails leading to places such as the Madonna and Child waterfall. One can explore the indigenous forests and enjoy small the hospitality of the artistic community.

There are plenty of B&Bs to stay in. We really like staying at Hogsback Inn, established in 1880. They offer hotel rooms as well as separate cottages, and the hotel has a real charm.

Hogsback Inn rental house, South Africa — Hogsback

Madonna and Child Waterfal
The hike leads through the indigenous forest. The first part involves a steep descent, leading to the waterfall hidden in the middle of the forest. The walk continues through the forest, allowing admiration of some very old Yellowwood trees. It concludes in the bottom part of Hogsback Village.

Madonna and Child waterfall, Hogsback, South Africa — Madonna and Child Waterfall

800years old Yellowood tree in Hogsback, Eastern Cape — Madonna and Child Waterfall

The Kettlespout Hiking Trail
The trail is of a moderate level of difficulty with no extra steep ascends or descents. The journey begins at the Hogsback Arboretum and continues way through the indigenous forests filled with ancient Yellowwood trees. At the end of the trail is the Kettlespout Waterfall.

Hike towards Kettlespout Waterfall in South Africa, Hogsback — Towards Kettlespout Waterfall

Kettlespout waterfall in Hogsback — Towards Kettlespout Waterfall

Rhodes, Drakensberg Mountains

Hogsback – Rhodes: 320km, 5 hours. 4×4 off road car is needed.

Rhodes is a small village located in the Drakensberg Mountains, a good 2 hours away from the nearest town and accessible through a dirt road. Named after the British imperialist Cecil John Rhodes, it offers a true escape from urban life. The village houses are built in well-preserved Victorian architecture. In the evening, there are no lights in the village and no shops, so it is crucial to bring everything needed. There is only a small pub where locals gather in the evening.

During our time in Rhodes, we enjoyed two awesome excursions – a drive to Tenahead and skiing in Tiffandel.

View of Drakensberg Mountains, Rhodes, South Africa — Drakensberg Mountains

Tenahead Lodge

It is a luxury retreat situated 30km from Rhodes. The journey to Tenahead is an adventure in itself, with a narrow dirt road winding through the mountain ranges, taking at least an hour to reach the destination. The scenery along the way is breathtaking, and upon arrival, the lodge offers fantastic hospitality. We had a great lunch at the lodge’s restaurant while taking in the stunning views.

View from the Tenahead lodge patio — Tenahead Lodge

Tiffindell Ski Resort

Yes, indeed, there is (or was) a skiing resort in South Africa! Located about 25km from Rhodes, getting there is an adventure in itself. The journey involves a dirt road through the mountain ranges, passing by Naude’s Neck Pass, the third-highest pass in South Africa. As you approach, a small strip of white snow becomes visible, drawing closer with each turn.
For us, excellent skiers was the slope “fun” but the overall experience of skiing in Africa was truly unforgettable.

Very sadly, the skiing resort didn’t open this year, and according to the website, it is currently for sale.

Naude's Nek Pass, South Africa — Naude’s Nek Pass

Naude's Peak view of the Drakensberg mountains — Naude’s Nek Pass

Kob Inn in Transkei

Rhodes – Kob Inn: 277km, 5,5hours. 4×4 off road car is needed

About Transkei

It is a distinctive region in the Eastern Cape of South Africa, bears historical importance as a Bantustan—a partially self-governing area established during the apartheid era. Founded in 1963, it was designated as a separate homeland for the Xhosa-speaking Thembu people. Despite gaining nominal independence in 1976, this status was not internationally recognized. In 1994, following the end of apartheid, Transkei was reintegrated into South Africa. Nonetheless, life in Transkei still echoes its original lifestyle.

There are several hotel lodges scattered along the Transkei coastline. One of them is Kob Inn.
Situated about 1.5 hours away from the closest city Willowvale, the journey to reach Kob Inn involves navigating a less-than-ideal dirt road. However, the destination itself is a paradise. With long, wide sandy beaches and a beautiful coastline, Kob Inn invites outdoor activities such as fishing, hiking, or canoeing.

Kob Inn restaurant with view — Kob Inn restaurant

Sunrise at Kob Inn, Transkei — Kob Inn restaurant

During our stay at Kob Inn, we did a hike to another Transkei lodge, Mazzepa Bay. This half-day activity was nothing short of fantastic, featuring walks on empty beaches with cows basking in the sun, ascending cliffs for panoramic views, observing a seal resting on a large stone, and witnessing dolphins and whales in the ocean.

Cows on the beach, Kob Inn, Transkei — Cows on the beach

Seal at the rock, Transkei — Cows on the beach

Morgan Bay

Kob Inn – Morgan Bay: 103km, 3hours. 4×4 off road car is needed

Morgan Bay is another stunning location bordering Transkei on the South African wildcost. There is a small village and the absolutely fantastic Morgan Bay Hotel. While the hotel may be pricier compared to other places, the quality of service is exceptional, making a stay there a true treat.
We spent two days in the winter months, so our activities revolved around hiking.

Morgan Bay hotel, South Africa — Morgan Bay hotel

Walk on the Cliffs:

The views of the ocean from the cliffs above Morgan Bay are breathtaking. Spending hours there, walking, enjoying the scenery, and observing dolphins and whales in close proximity made it truly memorable.

Ocean view, South Africa, Morgan Bay — Cliffs, Morgan Bay

Hike to Kei River Mouth:

This half-day activity began with a beach walk leading to higher, bushy grounds, passing by the lighthouse along the way. Although the lighthouse is closed to public, we were fortunate; on that day, maintenance was underway, and we were allowed to climb all the way up. The walk continued down to the ocean, where we climbed over many rocks to eventually reach Kei River Mouth. Completing a loop, we walked on the back road, enjoyed a snack at the local golf course restaurant, and returned to our hotel. This unspoiled route has no shops, so carrying water and snacks is essential for this hike.

Climbing rocks on the way to Kei River Mouth — Walk on the beach

Port Alfred

Morgan Bay – Port Alfred: 220km, 2hours 40min. Accesible without 4×4 vehicle.

Situated on the Sunshine Coast it is a charming coastal town with the Kowie River winding through it and opening into the Indian Ocean. The town’s beautiful beaches make it a popular destination for beach lovers and surfers. Port Alfred also has a rich history, reflected in its historic architecture and landmarks. The Royal Alfred Marina adds a unique touch to the town, with its network of canals and waterfront properties.

Royal Port Alfred Marina, South Africa — Royal Port Alfred Marina

Marina in Port Alfred — Royal Port Alfred Marina

Beaches

The pristine wide long beaches invite you to take a long walk while enjoying the sound of the ocean.

East Beach is liked by local surfers as the East Pier break is one of the most powerful in South Africa. There is a parking right at the entrance to the beach.

East Beach, Port Alfred, South Africa — East Beach

Kellys, the Blue Flag beach, is a place for beginner/intermediate surfers to enjoy the less powerful waves as well as for bodyboarders or swimmers to enjoy the ocean. Parking is right above the beach.

Sunrise at Kelly's beach in Port Alfred, South Africa — Sunrise at Kelly’s beach

Kelly's Blue flag beach, Port Alfred — Sunrise at Kelly’s beach

Surf School

The local Shaka Surf School is being run by David MacGregor, the multiple South African longboard champion surfer. I became a surfer myself thanks to David.

Surfing in Port Alfred — Surf lesson with Shaka Surf School

River activities

The Kowie river flows through the town, providing a fantastic place for activities like boating, canoeing, SUP paddle boarding, waterskiing, skurfing or fishing.

I can highly recommend a local business Outdoor Focus. Carey Webster and her team will get you sorted with any outdoor activity in Port Alfred.

Kowie river in Port Alfred — Kowie river

Skurfing at the Kowie river in Port Alfred — Kowie river

Golf

The Royal Port Alfred Golf Club is one of four golf clubs in South Africa that have been granted the right to use the “Royal” prefix. The club features well-maintained fairways and greens, complemented by coastal views. What I find unique about the golf course is the real nature touch – any time we play golf, we see antelopes scattered around munching on the grass or a tortoise crawling slowly around.

Royal Port Alfred Golf Club, South Africa — Royal Port Alfred Golf Club

Sandboarding

The East Beach dunes are ideal for sandboarding activities, and a lot of fun for everyone.

East Beach sandbording activity, Port Alfred — Sandboarding

Sandboarding on the East beach dunes in Port Alfred South Africa — Sandboarding

Adventure Road trip in South Africa – last stretch

The drive from Port Alfred to the airport in Gqeberha (Port Elizabeth) will take approximately 1 hour and 45 minutes.

Wishing you a wonderful adventure road trip in South Africa! 🇿🇦

Home

Table of Contents

Practical facts

Day 1: Free Walking Tour & Exploring Hong Kong Island

Day 2: Kowloon

Day 3: Macau – “The Las Vegas of Asia”

Day 4: Ocean Park

Day 5: Lantau Island Adventure

Ngong Ping 360 Cable Car

Big Buddha (Tian Tan Buddha)

Po Lin Monastery

Tai O Fishing Village

Evening: Symphony of Lights – Kowloon

Day 6: Monster Building, Causeway Bay & The Peak Circular Walk

Monster Building (Quarry Bay)

Causeway Bay

The Peak Circular Walk

Day 7: “The Dark Side of Hong Kong” Tour & Farewell Walk

Table of Contents

Few words about South Africa

Few words about Namibia

Our trip

Upington

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, South Africa 🇿🇦

Twee Rivieren

Mata Mata

Game drives

Border Crossing: from South Africa to Namibia

Lake Oanob Resort – Namibia 🇳🇦

Etosha National park, Namibia 🇳🇦

Okaukuejo rest camp

Day trip to Olifantsrus Camp

Halali Rest Camp

Namutoni Rest Camp

Driving back from our safari road trip in Africa

Table of Contents

Practical Insights:

Map of places to explore

Tsitsikamma National Park

Jeffreys Bay

Addo Elephant National Park

Adrenaline Addo

The Bedrogfontein 4×4 Trail.

Mountain Zebra National Park

Hogsback

Kob Inn in Transkei

Morgan Bay

Port Alfred

Adventure Road trip in South Africa – last stretch