An Exciting 9-Day Road Trip to Georgia 🇬🇪
The idea of embarking on a road trip to Georgia came to mind during a late-night layover at Dubai airport. Contemplating which region to explore, the post-Soviet republics captured my attention.
Planning the road trip commenced with securing suitable flights to Tbilisi. Opting for LOT (Polish Airlines) via Warsaw emerged as the best choice. Visa requirements were duly checked, and fortunately, no visa hurdles awaited us—smooth sailing.
Determining the places to visit within our timeframe was the next step. Given Georgia’s vast expanse, the selection of areas and regions to explore became a “must”. Details of our choices can be found below.
Table of Contents
Practical Tips:
Mobile Data:
The discovery of Airalo proved revolutionary. For phones with e-SIM functionality, I highly recommend downloading it to avoid the constant swapping of physical SIM cards. Airalo allows effortless purchase of e-SIM cards for nearly every country worldwide, offering regional options like Europe or Africa.
Local Currency:
The Georgian Lari is the official currency. Cash was indispensable, especially for accommodation payments, as many places required it. While larger cities’ shops and restaurants generally accepted cards, ATMs were available for cash withdrawals.
Taxi:
In Tbilisi, Uber may be absent, but Bolt operates on a similar principle. Download the app for reliable and affordable rides. Beware of taxi drivers at Tbilisi airport claiming to be Bolt drivers; ordering through the app is safer to avoid exorbitant charges.
Car Rental:
Opting for Tbiliso Car Rental proved a wise decision. They delivered the car directly to our hotel and arranged a convenient airport meeting for return. Despite the local cash payment norm, the company provided excellent service, including full insurance and no surcharge for a second driver. Check my Google review.
Driving in Georgia:
Despite warnings about the challenges of driving in Georgia, I found it totally manageable. Georgian drivers can be “hectic”, overtaking in unconventional places. Roads vary in conditions, and roaming animals are common. Adopting a defensive driving approach, staying calm, and allowing overtaking ensured a pleasant journey. After all, it was a holiday—no need to rush.
Petrol stations are conveniently located in close proximity to each other and are easily accessible for drivers. In the majority of cases, they accept card payments.
One crucial tip to note is that Google Maps often estimates shorter travel times between destinations. Despite the relatively short distances, road conditions may not always be optimal.
Days 1: afternoon in Tbilisi
Rustaveli Avenue:
Tbilisi’s main thoroughfare, Rustaveli Avenue, proved to be a perfect introduction to the city. It is the “home” of significant landmarks such as the Georgian Parliament, the Georgian National Opera Theater, and the Georgian Academy of Sciences. The avenue is lined with shops and restaurants. Fortunately, our timing aligned perfectly, allowing us to visit the local market, which is open only on specific days of the week.
Parliament of Georgia
The Parliament building complex was originally constructed as the House of Government of the Georgian Soviet Socialist Republic in the 19th century. It consists of “upper” and “lower” buildings interconnected by a courtyard with staircases and fountains.
Rustaveli Theater
It is the largest and one of the oldest theaters in Georgia. Named after Shota Rustaveli, a medieval Georgian poet, the theater’s rich history dates back to its establishment in 1887. It was fully renovated between 2002 and 2005.
National Opera Theater
Founded in 1851, the Tbilisi Opera takes center stage as the main opera house of Georgia and one of the oldest in Eastern Europe.
Liberty Square
Rustaveli Avenue guides you to Liberty Square, a busy plaza. It is packed with the constant motion of cars and people rushing around. The statue of St. George slaying the dragon dominates the square. It is the symbol of freedom and independence. There are several landmarks such as the Georgian National Museum, or Tbilisi City Hall on the square.
After strolling through Rustaveli Avenue, we decided to have a dinner at Fabrika. It is located in the creative Vera district of Tbilisi. The space was originally a Soviet sewing factory, and the Fabrika complex has repurposed this industrial setting into a vibrant hub for creativity, culture, and social interaction. It offers mix of open cafes and resturants.
Day 2: Exploring Tbilisi
After having a breakfast, we walked from our hotel, via the familiar paths of Rustaveli Avenue, towards Liberty Square. From there, our journey extended to discover new and unexplored landmarks.
Heading from Liberty Square, we walked towards the Clock Tower. Adjacent to the marionette theatre, this distinctive tower, built by Rezo Gabriadze in 2010, is a true masterpiece. Every hour, an angel comes out to ring the bell with a small hammer.
Bridge of Piece
Our next destination was the Bridge of Peace, a captivating structure that opened to the public in 2010. This construction is a pedestrian-only bridge crafted from a combination of glass and steel making it a unique and visually interesting landmark.
Rike Park, Cable Car station
After crossing the bridge, we reached the opposite side of the Mtkvari River, concluding our journey in Rike Park. A stroll through the park led us to the cable car station, the next leg of our adventure that would transport us to the historic Narikala Fortress.
Narikala
It is an ancient fortress on a hill overlooking Tbilisi and the Mtkvari River. Positioned on a steep incline, we walked through the fortress remnants. Our exploration extended to the remarkable “Mother of Georgia” statue, a symbolic representation of Georgian national character. With a bowl of wine in her left hand, she welcomes friends, while a sword in her right hand signifies readiness to confront enemies.
The Chreli-Abano Sulphur bath.
The Chreli-Abano Sulphur Bath is situated at the base of the Narikala Fortress, a location steeped in legend. According to the tale, it is believed to be the spot where the falcon of the King of Iberia, Vakhtang Gorgasali, fell. This event led to the discovery of the hot springs and, in turn, the establishment of a new capital.
Leghvtakhevi Waterfall
We walked from the sulfur bath complex through the stunning Leghvtakhevi canyon, guiding us to the stunning waterfall at its conclusion. A place certainly deserving of exploration.
Old town restaurants
Following a day filled with exploration, it was time for a meal at one of the charming old town restaurants.
Day 3: Georgian Millitary Road
Tbilisi – Stepantsminda: 158km
On Day 3, the Tbiliso Car Rental company delivered our car right to the hotel doorstep—a fantastic bonus. Our plan for the day was to drive from Tbilisi to Stephantsminda (also known as Kazbegi) via the famed Georgian Military Road.
Stretching 212 kilometers from Tbilisi (Georgia) to Vladikavkaz (Russia), the Georgian Military Road is a historic route utilized by invaders and traders over the ages. My pre-road trip readings had painted a picture of a potentially hazardous route, marked by obstacles like landslides, potholes, and free-roaming animals. Naturally, I wondered what the reality would be. Surprisingly, it turned out to be fine.
Perhaps my perspective is influenced by my experience driving on African roads, many of which are in a dire state. There was a challenging section around Gudauri where a portion of the road had collapsed, leading to a self-regulated flow of traffic. However, we navigated through that part fairly swiftly.
As mentioned earlier, Georgian drivers can be somewhat hectic, overtaking in seemingly ridiculous places. Nevertheless, the journey offers numerous landmarks to stop and explore along the way. I had allocated the entire day for sightseeing and driving, ensuring an easy going pace.
Places to visit on Millitary Road
Jvari monastery
Tbilisi – Jvari: about 27km
Jvari Monastery is situated on a hill overlooking the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers, near the town of Mtskheta. Mtskheta is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world and is considered a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We saved the visit to Mtskheta for our drive back to allow time to visit the other landmarks on the Millitary road.
Zhinvali Reservoir
Jvari – Zhinvali Reservoir: about 45km
The reservoir is totally impressive. It is located on the Aragvi River and it serves multiple purposes, including hydroelectric power generation, water supply, and flood control. There are few stops to pull over and enjoy the view.
Ananuri Fortress
It is located near the Zhinvali Reservoir. It is a significant historical site, with its roots dating back to the 17th century. The complex served as the residence of the Dukes of Aragvi, a feudal dynasty that ruled this region of Georgia.
The site offers stunning views of the Zhinvali Reservoir and the Caucasus Mountains.
Pasanauri
Ananuri – Pasanauri about 30km
Following our exploration of Ananuri Fortress, we continued with our journey towards Pasanauri, a small village along the Military Road. We chose to make a stop in this small village for lunch.
Panorama Gudauri
Pasanauri – Panorama Gudauri: about 37km
Referred to as the Georgian-Russian Friendship Monument, this structure was constructed in 1983 to commemorate the bicentennial of the Treaty of Georgievsk, symbolizing the enduring friendship between Soviet Georgia and Soviet Russia. Positioned on the Georgian Military Highway, nestled between the ski resort town of Gudauri and the Jvari Pass, the monument takes the form of a sizable circular stone and concrete structure, offering panoramic views of the Devil’s Valley in the Caucasus mountains.
Stepantsminda (Kazbegi)
We passed Gudauri, the Georgian skiing resort on the way. Houses were scattered around the main road and hills, but we decided not to make a stop, as it didn’t look all too interesting to explore further. Surely, the winter scenery must be beautiful in that area. Our ultimate stop for the day was Stepantsminda, formerly known as Kazbegi. Arriving in the late afternoon, we quickly located our accommodation. Our accommodation for the next two nights was Kheta Apartments, a charming dwelling offering a splendid view of the iconic Gergeti Trinity Church and Mount Kazbeg.
Day 4: Gergeti Trinity Church – Juta – Chaukhi Lake
Gergeti Trinity Church
The following morning, we drove up to visit the Gergeti Trinity Church, an important landmark in Stepantsminda. While many choose to embark on a day trip, hiking up the steep hill, we decided on an alternative plan for the rest of the day. Dating back to the 14th century, the Gergeti Trinity Church remains an active institution within the Georgian Orthodox and Apostolic Church.
Following our exploration of the church and relishing the breathtaking views of Mount Kazbeg, we made our way back to Stepantsminda and then proceeded toward the village of Juta.
The journey to Juta
Before our drive, we were advised that reaching Juta demands a 4×4 vehicle and some driving expertise. This proved accurate. As we left the Military Road, driving deeper into the valley, the road conditions deteriorated. Eventually, only a “dirt” road ascended to Juta, highlighting the necessity for a 4×4 vehicle.
Juta – Chauki Lake hike
Arriving at Juta village, recognized as the highest inhabited settlement in Georgia, we reached the starting point for an approximately 8km round trek to Chauki Lake.
After parking our car, we sought guidance from a local to locate the trailhead. Though I had read descriptions of the trail being fairly easy, the reality hit us during the initial 1km of a steep ascent before reaching the more level plateau of the valley. Once we conquered that section, the valley unveiled itself before us, affirming that the effort was indeed worthwhile.
Continuing along the trail, navigation was straightforward, with little chance of getting lost. However, a new challenge emerged near the summit as we approached the lake. We needed to cross a river stream, and there was no apparent crossing point. Following the lead of other tourists, we found the most convenient spot, hopping from one substantial rock to another. Finally reaching the lake, its size was not as expansive as we had envisioned, but the mountain views were breathtaking.
On our way back to Juta village, we made a misjudgment. Upon reaching Chaukhi Lake, we spotted another trail leading to Juta village. Having read about the possibility of completing a circular route, it appeared to be an excellent idea for our descent. However, this choice proved to be wrong.
As we neared the valley plateau, it became evident that there was no viable way to cross the river. The river flowed swiftly, and its width posed a challenge. Unwilling to backtrack the entire way, we sought the calmest and narrowest section. Eventually, we identified the best option, though not without its challenges. Removing our shoes, we began the crossing. The water was freezing cold. At the midpoint, we contemplated turning back, but we pressed on and successfully crossed.
This experience serves as a cautionary note for those reading this post—be mindful not to make the same mistake.
Day 5: Mtskheta – Gori
Stephantsminda – Gori: about 250km
Mtskheta
The next day, we prepared for our journey down the Military Road, with our initial destination being the town of Mtskheta—one of Georgia’s oldest cities and among the world’s continuously inhabited urban areas.
Upon reaching Mtskheta, we parked our car. Before exploring the city , we took a break at Tatin Coffee Shop.
The town is relatively compact, with the focal point being the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, acknowledged by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. Interestingly, for us Europeans, the entrance to the cathedral was unexpectedly free of charge.
Having explored the cathedral, we took a leisurely stroll through the city before embarking on the final leg of our day’s journey to Gori.
Gori
An intriguing aspect of Gori is that it serves as the birthplace of Joseph Stalin, the leader of the Soviet Union. While there is a museum dedicated to Stalin, we chose not to visit it.
Arriving in Gori later in the afternoon, we opted for a leisurely stroll through the town. We also explored the Fortress situated above the city. I would stick to the pleasant exterior view next time.
Day 6: Gori – Uplistsikhe Cave Town – Batumi
Gori – Batumi: 279km
Uplistsikhe Cave Town
While Gori itself may not be a standout destination, the nearby Uplistsikhe cave town is an absolute must-visit. Recognized by archaeologists as one of the oldest urban settlements in Georgia, Uplistsikhe is situated approximately 10km from Gori and is currently on the UNESCO tentative list.
After breakfast, we made our way there. I would recommend exploring the cave town either early in the morning or late in the afternoon as it is quite exposed to the sun. Upon arrival, we parked in the designated area right in front of the entrance, purchased our tickets, and freely roamed the settlement. Walking into the caves, we envisioned how people once lived there.
Setting off on a lengthy journey, we headed towards Batumi in the afternoon following our visit to the cave town. While a portion of the route involves a highway, other sections take us along national roads characterized by heavy traffic and, in some instances, roads that are not impeccably maintained. There is a highway under construction but during our visit in July 2023 the travelling was not easy.
Batumi
Upon our arrival in Batumi, we encountered absolutely terrible traffic, requiring at least an hour to navigate through the city to reach our accommodation. Despite booking an apartment by the seafront a few kilometers away from Batumi city center, our assumption of private parking was incorrect. Parking in Batumi in July proved to be a “mission impossible”. Fortunately, luck was on our side as we managed to secure a parking space that became available just as we arrived. Observing the challenging parking situation, we opted not to consider using the car for the duration of our stay.
Days 7 & 8: Our stay in Batumi
Batumi, a Black Sea resort and port city, serves as the capital of the Georgian republic of Adjara. It is a blend of modern skyscrapers and weathered old buildings where locals still reside.
While some may choose to spend the entire day lounging on the beach, our inclination is always to explore the surroundings.
The beach promenade
It spans 8km and provides an excellent walking path. There are many restaurants, coffees, and ice cream stands on the promenade. At the end of the promenade stands The Alphabetic Tower
The Alphabetic Tower
This 130-meter-high structure symbolizes the uniqueness of the Georgian alphabet and its people. After purchasing tickets, we took the elevator all the way up the tower, providing a fantastic vantage point to overlook the city.
The Octopus
An interesting structure awaits in Batumi Park. Housing the Fantasy Café, it serves as a popular meeting point for both Batumi residents and numerous guests.
We took a walk through the streets, exploring the local shops and discovering a few coffee spots that caught our attention
Among them were:
- The Batumi version of Starbucks: While bearing the Starbucks logo, the coffee shop presents a unique design distinct from the traditional Starbucks.
- Kafune TrdelNik: Since Trdelník is popular in Prague, being sold on every corner of the city, we couldn’t resist trying the Batumi version.
- CoffeeTopia: This coffee shop stood out with its intriguing interior design and good coffee.
Another attraction in Batumi is the Dolphinarium, but we chose not to explore it.
Day 9: Batumi – Tbilisi – flying home from our road trip to Georgia
On our final day, we got up early to navigate through Batumi without encountering traffic jams. Driving back to Tbilisi, we met with the Tbiliso Car Rent representative at the airport. After handing over the car, we checked in for our flight back home. This road trip was truly enjoyable, and we hope it inspires your own adventures.
